Alla Spiaggia

It’s our final full day in Minori and we have one thing on the agenda: spiaggia (beach). In the morning, we fed potato chips to the swans, seagulls and ducks who have been nesting in the water and rocks outside our apartment. A man came by and fed them stale cornetti (croissants) which they liked a lot better.

Big D walked to the Bar Antares and bought himself two chocolate cornetti to enjoy at the beach club. I missed morning mass at the basilica but explored the inside afterwards visiting the crypt of Saint Trofimena, the patron saint of Minori.

Paul, Big D and I played in the ocean which is more crowded today being that it’s Sunday. When Miss M awoke it was almost lunchtime! We all spent time on the beach, cooling off in the water, and eating panini and fried fish for lunch.

We came to Italy with one ball (Big D’s basketball) and we’re leaving Minori with three. We’ve purchased two types of beach balls here, one of which is very popular on the coast. It’s an orange ball with the label “Super Santos” so the kids have named the ball “Amelia” in honor of Miss M’s good friend with the same surname. All week the kids have played “Seven Push” in the water with anyone who wants to join them, adults and kids.

It’s 5:30pm as I’m writing this part of the blog and literally Big D has spent a grand total of two minutes out of the water and it’s only because I forced him to take a few bites of his sandwich.

At 6pm, the cruise ships that we have seen in the distance sounded their horns as they left, and it started to sprinkle. God is sad that it’s almost time for us to leave Minori.

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Pompei and Vesuvius

Paul started the morning with a ride on a scooter. The guys at the car park in Maiori didn’t have his car ready as requested, so instead of bringing the car to Paul, they brought Paul to the car!

Big D and Miss M enjoyed one Euro cornetti (croissants) for breakfast and we headed out for the day.

Paul navigated the windy road to get us to Pompei. We joined a few families and hired Carmine, a tour guide for two hours. He showed us homes, artifacts and of course the brothel, all preserved by the ash from Mt Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 AD. Big D was responsible for taking photos with the good camera which means he took a lot of shots of stone penises and butt cracks on statues.

After Pompei, Paul brought us to Vesuvius so we could hike to the crater of this non-active volcano. A few times we had to reverse direction on the drive because of oncoming buses and sharp corners, but otherwise all good! It was a dusty hike, but well worth the uphill climb. The view of the crater was spectacular and it was so neat being at that elevation after spending a week at the beach. Miss M enjoyed the feeling of clouds surrounding her.

During the 90 minute commute back to Minori, along the winding roads and around the mountain, we drove behind a truck filled with tomatoes, another carrying fennel. We passed terraces of lemon trees and olive trees and grape vines, homes clinging to the side of the mountain, all scenery we’ve come to take for granted as repeat visitors of southern Italy.

We finished the day back in Minori at the beach, cooling off in the water and then strolling around Minori for dinner. Paul and I grabbed a container of mixed fish from the local fish fry, Big D and Miss M each had sandwiches from the local market (mortadella and mozzarella, and prosciutto cotto) along with a can of “esthe the limone” a lemon iced tea beverage they’ve ordered a lot on this trip.

We happened to be walking by Sal De Riso Pasticceria and lo and behold I spotted Sal! Some background: I’ve been a fan of Sal for many years, reading about his acclaim across Italy and international pastry circles, and when I discovered his origins were in Minori I just had to have his famous pear and ricotta tart when we were here six years ago. It was amazing. After the trip, Paul and I found the recipe online and tried to recreate at home, but it was a total fail. I’ve been looking forward to the tart and experiencing Sal de Riso’s store as we planned this trip, and bought my own ricotta and pear tart to have in the apartment this week. So meeting Sal and telling him how much we appreciate his talent was a real treat!

The kids brought the soccer ball to the beach at night, making a few friends and burning off the post-dinner gelato. Paul and I enjoyed some cocktails on the beach promenade at Crystal while the kids played. We people watched (more on that tomorrow) and then called it a night.

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A day at sea

Today Captain Paul rented a boat so we could enjoy the beauty of the Amalfi coast from the water. We departed Minori, passed Atrani, Amalfi, Conca dei Marini, Furore, Praiano and stopped the boat to access a beach outside of Positano. The beach is not accessible by foot, only by boat. The kids and I swam ashore and to our delight, there was a ton of sea glass. We quickly started collecting as much as our hands could hold, and sent Miss M swimming back to the boat to retrieve a bag for our treasures.

The beach was small, and after 30 minutes another family and their dog joined us.

I briefly stayed on the boat alone so Paul could swim to shore as well. Not comfortable with navigating the boat myself, Paul quickly swam back to me so our drifting boat wouldn’t collide with another nearby.

Big D took a turn driving the boat; he enjoyed accelerating towards the waves.

We then headed back down the coast, lingering outside of Fiordo di Furore to watch some of the boats squeeze through an opening (under a massive stone arch supporting the main road) to reach another small beach. Enjoying the wind in our hair and sun beating down on us, we sunbathed and relaxed while Captain Paul brought us to Maiori, one town south of Minori. Again we all jumped in the clean, beautiful and warm water, remarking at the saltiness.

We were exhausted and enjoyed a late lunch of pasta and panini at Bar Europa in Minori’s town square.

After a brief siesta and gelatos, we hopped on the ferry to spend the night in Positano. We browsed some stores in Positano and after realizing how difficult it would be to reach La Tagliata (a restaurant recommended to us by good friends) we decided to bail. Positano was crowded with tourists and one place we stopped to check the menu had outrageous prices. We took the SITA bus to Amalfi instead. The kids stood in the very front of the bus as it wound along the coast – views of the cliffs and steep drops to the sea out one side, views of the winding road ahead as busses, cars and motorcycles approached the narrow road.

In Amalfi we dined at Pizzeria Donna Stella. Paul’s stuffed squash flowers are better than theirs, but the pizzas were excellent. Miss M had pizza margherita, Big D had a white pizza, my pizza had a poached egg, spicy sausage, mozzarella and burrata, and Paul’s had mozzarella, onion, red pepper flakes and lardo.

We finished the night with our second gelato of the day and took the SITA bus back to Minori.

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Beautiful Cetera

Today we took a short boat ride (25 minutes) further down the Amalfi coast to a small town called Cetera. The boat service didn’t exist when we were here six years ago, and it’s wonderful: Minori to Maiori to Cetera to Salerno. Our friend Antonella grew up in Cetera and now lives in Belmont, but returns to her hometown with her family every summer.

Antonella’s sisters cooked us a delicious lunch of baby octopus with potatoes, local tuna and anchovies, fresh mozzarella, steamed mussels with fresh amalfi lemons, and another little squid dish with spaghetti in a red sauce. Lunch was capped off with limoncello and a ricotta and pear tart from Sal de Riso.

We met many members of Antonella’s family and friends – cousins, aunts, nieces, pets, family friends, and friends that the kids hang out with each summer. We saw where Antonella grew up, where she went to school, where she used to work, and many more places of importance from her childhood and present life. The town is so small and she knows everyone. There’s one road — literally one — and two beaches, so of course we swam in both.

It was such a wonderful opportunity to spend time in the place that means so much to her and now has a special meaning for us.

We took the last boat back from Cetera to Minori, Paul made us a delicious dinner of spaghetti carbonara and insalata caprese, and we took a short walk after dinner for gelato at Gambardella, one of the oldest pasticcerias in Minori.

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Good morning Minori

Every night Minori has been hopping. We go to bed, whether it’s at midnight or after 2am, and there are children running about and adults socializing on the promenade along the water. The vitality of life in Italy seems to have no bounds, or at least, no bedtime. The energy is relaxed and fun….people out and about having a good time. It’s really great, except for when you are trying to sleep. Not sure if it’s the crescent shaped layout of Minori that makes the sound echo or reverberate, but I can hear everything from our apartment since we’ve been sleeping with all of the windows open. The gentleman setting up the fruit/vegetable stand in the town square, people double parking in front of the bar to start their day with an espresso, 20-somethings wrapping up their partying at 5 am, a motorcycle zipping up the street, plus the sound of the waves crashing…I can hear it all. I’ve found that the activity on this main stretch -the one road in and out of Minori – does not stop.

At 4:30am today I woke up to the sounds of some partiers that still hadn’t called it a night. Sitting on the balcony, I could see that they were at the other end of the town from me, but I could still hear them. At 5am I went for a walk around town to Minori as it was starting to wake up for the day.

By 7am, vendors were setting up stands on the promenade: one selling fruit, another plants and seeds, a man selling cheese out of the back of his Fiat, and then a dozen vendors selling clothes.

While it has been light out for some time, the sun finally rose over the neighboring mountain. It beamed onto the balcony of the bedroom, making it too hot to sit outside.

We spent the rest of the day away from Minori…more on that tomorrow.

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1,283 stairs

After a full day at the beach, last night we hiked from Minori to Ravello, an incredible town perched high above the water with beautiful views of the towns of Minori and Maiori below. Big D diligently counted the number of stairs we climbed up the steep and winding path: 1,283.

In Ravello we had dinner at Mimi Pizzeria where we each had our own pie: pizza margherita for Miss M, quattro formaggi (four cheese) for Big D, my pizza was called Rebellum and had cooked ham with dollops of burrata cheese, and Paul’s pizza was called the Costiera. It had ricotta, mozzarella, squash flowers, and an oil with the flavors of anchovies and lemon. It was all delicious.

We made our way to “Ceremiche d’Arte by Pascal” to see the man himself. We’ve been to Italy many times now (Paul six, me five) and therefore have seen more than our fair share of hand painted ceramics. We know unique pieces when we see them, and six years ago bought a piece designed by Pascal in Ravello. Instead of wasting our time this trip browsing many stores, we went straight to Pascal and weren’t disappointed. Pascal was so happy to hear that we were repeat customers, and they now ship for free to the U.S. for any purchase over 200 Euro which is easy to do in his store! He showed me the design purchased by George Clooney, his wife showed us pictures of his six sons as we were matchmaking for Miss M, and he invited us to stay at his villa next trip.

After climbing 1,283 stairs earlier, we rewarded ourselves with gelato. Paul had researched Baffone Gelateria Artiginale and knew it was the best gelato around. It was right down the street from Pascal and it did not disappoint. I had a whiskey/fig flavor called “Nonno Baffone” and cherry, Big D had Oreo and frutti di bosco, and Paul had dark chocolate and the same whisky/fig.

We finally made our way back to the town square with every intention of taking a taxi back down the mountain to Minori so we could call it a night, but the taxi driver wanted 45 Euro for the one way trip! We refused to pay that, knowing it would not take us long to walk back to Minori. Another 1,283 downhill stairs and 35 minutes later, and we were back at sea level.

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Minori beach days

It was so nice to wake up in Minori on our first full day in Italy. The sound of the crashing waves and beautiful view from our apartment can’t be beat. This is the perfect place to stay for the week. So far we’ve only heard one other family speak English. Very few American tourists.

On Tuesday Paul and I had a relaxing morning – cappuccinos at the local bar, shopping for groceries and beach towels, etc. Paul parked the car for the week in Maiori – the next town over, a five minute walk from our apartment.

The afternoon consisted of time at the Chalet del Mar beach club: two umbrellas, four lounge chairs, strong wifi. The water is warm, salty and clear, and the view from the water up and down the amalfi coast is spectacular. The salty water allows us to float effortlessly all day.

Dinner at Ristorante Giardinello where Paul had grilled octopus, Miss M had pizza, and Big D and I enjoyed N’dunderi — a pasta dumpling speciality found only in Minori.

Final stop Tuesday was gelato from Sal De Riso who last year expanded his original storefront to a cafe almost the length of a whole block. Row after row of gorgeous pastries and delicious gelato. We had frutti di bosco (mixed berry), strachiatella, peach and almond, pear, and more. People travel from all over Italy for his confections.

On Wednesday we again woke up to the crashing waves and went back to the same beach resort. This will be our schedule for the week. Beach, dinner, gelato…rinse and repeat.

Photos: a panoramic view from one of our three balconies, pastries from Sal de Riso, Big D with Mt Vesuvius, a view of Minori from the road entering town, the view from our bedroom balcony, and our apartment — yellow building in center of pic, second floor, three black windows with white trim and the fourth small window is the view from our kitchen!

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Vacanza a Italia

Today the kids and I met Paul in Italy for the beginning of our summer 2018 holiday. Paul has been here for a few days already, and he’ll blog about that experience shortly.

Driving from Rome to Caserta, we passed a field of hay bales and both kids remembered Damian’s first experience with a hay bale in Italy. It will be interesting to see what memories are jogged after their last visit to Italy six years ago.

After 3 hours we reached the LaReggia designer outlets in Caserta for some shopping, and then we continued our journey another 90 minutes to Minori where we’ll stay for the next week.

Paul fit right in with the Italian drivers speeding along the autostrada and navigating the winding amalfi coast drive. Pulled over at one point to get a picture of the sunset and mount Vesuvius in the background when Big D exclaimed “it’s Jesus coming down from the clouds!” It was a beautiful sight.

Waited about an hour in Minori for our AirBNB host to arrive. The WiFi is very spotty, there’s two bathrooms and two generous sized bedrooms, three balconies overlooking the beach, and super tiny kitchen. It’s the perfect spot for us.

At 9:30pm we finally grabbed dinner at Bar Europa, a half block from our flat where we ate six years ago. We saw Ana from Germany and her husband — they remembered us and Grandma Mary Ann’s leg brace that she was sporting six years ago. We dined on delicious pasta and bruschetta and finally called it a night.

Pictures to come tomorrow.

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Sharks and crabs

Tomorrow we return to Massachusetts so we spent our last day relaxing on Topsail Beach (Surf City to be exact) with our friends at their beach house. 
D loved riding the waves and spent hours and hours doing so. Miss M loved the huge hole she dug in the sand. And it was fun to watch a nearby crab dig his hole deeper and deeper into the sand. We found dozens of sharks teeth washed ashore and had a great day with our friends. 
It was a perfect ending to another amazing vacation. 
 

 

 

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Relaxing in Topsail 

We’ve spent the past two days in Topsail Island and it’s been very relaxing. No seaweed on the beach, plenty of shells, and lots of waves. Swim, sunbathe, repeat. 
Big D has loved riding the waves, spending the entire day in the water breaking only for lunch. Miss M has enjoyed sleeping late.
At night after dinner we’ve walked on the beach with flashlights to watch the crabs scurry about. 

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Wrapping up the college tour

Yesterday we began the day introducing the kids to an icon of the South: Waffle House. 

Since it wasn’t raining, we headed black to Duke to visit their beautiful gardens and walk through campus. The gardens were loaded with flowers and had largest lilly pads I’ve ever seen. Duke’s campus is really beautiful – reminds me of Hogwarts!

   

We’ve been joking that this trip has been part vacation / part college tour. Over the past two weeks we’ve visited University of Virginia, University of Richmond, Virginia Commonwealth University, College of William and Mary, University of North Carolina and Duke University!
A few hours after visiting Duke, we arrived at the fifth leg of our trip: Topsail Island. Topsail Island is south of the Outer Banks, and we’re staying at our friend’s beach house for the remainder of our trip. We had a relaxing rest of the day catching up. 

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Tobacco Road

Today we drove 3+ hours from Williamsburg to explore Tobacco Road — an area that refers to sports (particularly basketball) played between Duke and UNC Chapel Hill, rival Atlantic Coast Conference (ACC) universities which are located close to each other in North Carolina.

We started at the Dean Smith Dome at University of North Carolina. Even though the arena was closed due to renovations, we found a way to sneak in and admired the dozens of banners. The smell of polyurethane permeated the air as they had just resurfaced the court.

  


On our way out we stopped into the basketball operations office where we met Asst. Coach Hubert Davis, who played for UNC and the NBA. UNC is the reigning NCAA champion, and all kinds of trophies from the past season were there on the desk. The kids got to hold the NCAA National Championship trophy.

  

After a quick stop on E. Franklin Street for some UNC merchandise, we then headed to Duke.

Big D has been a Duke fan for years, so prior to the trip we signed him up for a Duke informational session designed to give prospective applicants a taste of Duke. There were high school kids from all over the country, but D and Miss M were not the only young ones in attendance. The admissions woman who spoke about Duke was so fantastic that Paul and I wanted to apply when she was done. At that point, a number of Duke students were present to split the group up and take us around campus for a tour. Unfortunately, it was pouring, and we decided to scrap it. Instead we headed right to the spot on campus Big D wanted to see the most anyway: Cameron Indoor Stadium. 

Cameron is widely considered one of the cathedrals of college basketball. Again we were met with renovations being done and the floor being surfaced, but we convinced a nice worker to let us in and see the inside. This made Big D very happy. 

  

Afterwards, we were able to explore Duke’s basketball Museum, filled with trophies, jerseys and the guidelines to Krzyzewskiville (google it).  

After checking into our hotel, we met a friend and co-worker at The Pit, an authentic barbecue restaurant in downtown Durham. I went with the pulled pork, Paul with ribs and the kids with some salads, all of which was delicious.  

After dinner, we walked 2 blocks to the Durham Athletic Park, former home of the Durham Bulls, the AAA baseball team, and the site of filming for the movie, Bull Durham. It was a long, but fun day. 

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Final VA observations

1. Everyone has been so friendly in Virginia. You can tell who is from the north since they don’t make eye contact or say hello. 
2. There are a lot of cicadas. They are noisy and it’s disconcerting to think they could drop out of the trees overhead at any time. 
3. We saw a black snake, several feet long, on the loose, slithering past one of the rides at Busch Gardens. The staff member keeping an eye on the snake didn’t seem alarmed and said it likely came out of the Busch Gardens woods. Yikes!

4. Big D loves the buffet at Kingsmill. He has 3-4 plates of food each morning: bagels, eggs, pastries, fruits, French toast and waffles. 

5. There’s been some pretty trees that wouldn’t last in New England (such as crepe myrtle), and one with these green pods that we still can’t figure out!

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Colonial Williamsburg

It was a rainy day today but we made the best of it in Colonial Williamsburg. I think the rain accentuated the smell of the horse droppings in the street, and when it wasn’t raining the air was thick and muggy. 

We visited the blacksmiths shop, saw how wigs and textiles were made, we visited the press room and bindery, and spent some time in “the magazine” artillery shed learning about weapons. 

Due to the rain, Paul’s axe throwing session was cancelled. 


We’ve spent a lot of time learning about American history over the past ten days, so by 4pm we were pretty historied-out.

We spent some time in the pouring rain enjoying the lazy river until they closed the pools for lightening. 

Take-out pizza for dinner and catching up on some TV was all we could handle tonight. Tomorrow we begin the fourth leg of our trip!

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Kingsmill on repeat

Kingsmill on repeat
We spent the entire day at the resort, lounging by the pool, drinking frozen mocktails and cocktails, Big D and Paul played tennis, Big D and I briefly rode bikes, and we swam a lot in the lazy river. 
We even repeated our dinner location: Food for Thought. 
We’ve spent a lot of time in the sun and water, so we’re looking forward to a day of exploring tomorrow. 

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Busch Gardens

Spent today at Busch Gardens Williamsburg – riding coasters and enjoying the shows. It has a European theme with rides and shows related to specific countries. 

We hit the Invadr wooden coaster, Le Scoot log flume (twice), the Loch Ness Monster coaster with two inversions, Escape from Pompei water ride, and the Apollos Chariot coaster which had the most up and down drops. We all had headaches and needed a break after Apollos Chariot.

We got soaked on the Roman Rapids (kids went twice), watched a few shows, and rode the Verbolten coaster. 

We closed out the night with one last ride on Le Scoot (again), the Curse of Darkastle 3D ride, and Loch Ness coaster (again). 

As you can guess, since we were at the park from opening til it closed, we dined on “park food” all day. We’re all eating fruit and veggies tomorrow!

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A day at Kingsmill

Today we spent the day at the Kingsmill Resort taking advantage of all this place has to offer: Paul and I worked out in the morning, I had a massage while Paul and Big D played tennis, we enjoyed the lazy river and swam in the pool, and we went kayaking on the James river. 
We all enjoyed dinner at Food for Thought, kids went back to the pool til 10pm, and we called it a night!

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Richmond

After a stop at Bodos Bagels (an institution on the UVA campus) we headed to Richmond.


Big D pushed the one man sled on the University of Richmond football field, Miss M played basketball on the Richmond Spider’s basketball court, and then we drove down Monument Ave to see the huge statues erected to Confederate heroes and Arthur Ashe (born in Richmond).



After a quick stop at Virginia Commonwealth University’s Siegel Arena, we had lunch at Mama Zu, highly recommended to us by some Belmont friends. 


Walked through the Carytown district of shops and restaurants, stumbling upon Coriander Armenian Salads and Grille. The owner had just returned from bringing her kids to Camp Hayastan in Franklin MA.
After Richmond, we headed to Williamsburg for the third leg of our trip. The Kingsmill Resort has pools, a lazy river, golf, kayaking, paddle boarding, tennis, and more. The kids are in heaven!

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Charlottesville

This morning we explored Monticello – Thomas Jefferson’s home. We took three separate tours of the three story home, Jeffersons gardens, and slavery at Monticello. There was a table set up (in the shade) where the kids could play games that jeffersons grandchildren played at the time, and you could try your hand at calligraphy with a quill pen. Overall very well done and glad we went first thing in the morning since it’s super hot in the sun!

Walked through the mall popping in and out of stores and saw the General Lee statue where locals have been staging protests to keep the confederate flag flying. 

We then went to UVA, stopping into the John Paul Jones arena and church where friends of ours got married. 


Dinner at South Street Brewery and we called it a night!

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Entering Virginia  

This morning we left Washington DC for the second leg of our trip: Charlottesville, Virginia. We toured Luray Caverns (26 floors below ground), had fun running around the nearby hedge maze and headed down the highway to see Cooters — a museum dedicated to Dukes of Hazard. Memorabilia, cars, the exterior of Daisy’s Diner, and confederate flags for sale. In fact, the flags are everywhere — houses, bumper stickers…we’re only two hours outside of D.C. and it feels like a different world. 



A short while later we entered Shenandoah National Park where we spent the next several hours looking at scenic views and horseback riding. Miss M really took to the horses and did a great job controlling “Buckshot.” My horse on the other hand, Tonto, did not like me. He stopped to eat grass and apples, kept whipping his tail to hit me, and accelerated to a trot several times versus the slow leisurely pace of the other horses. 

We drove to the end of the mountains trying desperately to spot a bear, but a lizard and deer were the only things in our view. (D and Miss M believe they saw a bear and we’ll just let them think that.) 
Dinner at Citizen Burger in Charlottesville and then to bed! 

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A final day in DC

Started the day on the Metro to Arlington National Cemetery. So glad we booked the tram tour in advance — it express took us to the Kennedy family area / eternal flame, then the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier where the kids solved the first of the DC trivia questions Grandpa sent us prior to the trip: the soldier standing guard paces 21 steps, turns around, and paces 21 steps back to where he began. 

After the cemetery we walked to the Marine Corps War Memorial and then headed to Georgetown.

First stop in Georgetown: Georgetown Cupcakes! I think Miss M is going to apply to GWU in a few years just to work there. A dozen cupcakes for lunch and we were sufficiently sugared-up for the afternoon.

In Georgetown, we sought out the steps where Father Damien plunged to his death in the Exorcist, the oldest supper club in the nation, and popped in and out of stores before boarding the Metro (again) to visit the White House (again) for more pics and souvenirs, and then on the Metro (again) so we could spend the remainder of the afternoon at the pool.

Went to The Smith for a delicious dinner where the kids all shared their favorite D.C. memory/experience. They are already talking about what they want to do the next time we’re in DC.

After dinner we Ubered to the Korean War Memorial which we had missed on our bikes yesterday. It was an amazing memorial – the fear in the mens and setting helping you visualize the soldiers walking through the brush was so moving. We walked back to the hotel via the Lincoln memorial, the national mall and Washington monument all lit up at night. A great ending to our time in D.C.  


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Planes, trains and bikes

A few years ago, we were fortunate to meet a military family spending two years as our neighbors in Belmont. We spent many many hours hanging outside while the kids played, and they held a special place in our hearts. 

Today we spent the days with our friends, who now live in VA, and picked up right where we left off like four years hadn’t gone by.
First we rented bikes and spent the morning exploring the monuments around the National Mall. Both kids were happy to have the speed of the bikes versus walking, and it helped us get around the crowds. Paul liked the Jefferson monument the most, and I was pleasantly surprised by FDRs.
After a lunch at the row of food trucks, we returned the bikes and headed to the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum. Damian loved all the aircrafts, but we were tired from the morning and quickly lost interest in the museum.
We relaxed on the mall, in the shade, reconnecting with our friends while the kids played.
At the end of the day, the Smalls returned home and we took the Metro to Georgetown for dinner at il Canale. Georgetown was cute – lots of shops and brick bullrings, but combined with a bustling waterfront with one mans boat trying to show up the other.
A nice end to another busy day!

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A full day, and night, in DC

There’s a Starbucks attached to the hotel, but we walked across the mall to Bakers & Baristas for breakfast – everything made in house and soooo good.

Walked across the mall and saw the Capital building in the distance.


At the National Archives, we saw the Declaration of Independence, Bill of Rights and Constitution. We even found the misspelling of Pennsylvania in the Constitution. The security guard said the number of visitors to the National Archives has ballooned since Nicholas Cage starred in National Treasure.

Walked through the National Portrait Gallery’s sculpture garden and bypassed a dozen food trucks to enjoy the award-winning Mitsitam at the National Museum of the American Indian for lunch. Named one of the best museum restaurants in the world it specializes in food from various regions across the Americas: I enjoyed a Peruvian salad with inca corn and some buffalo chili while Paul had salpican di pollo (Peruvian chicken salad).


Next at the Smithsonian Museum of National History, we saw the Hope diamond and other exhibits.

And then we made our way to Fords Theatre to see where Lincoln was shot.


A quick trip back to the hotel for a swim at the roof top pool, and spent the evening at the Washington Nationals game. D really liked the park and kept remarking on how open and clean it was. Bryce Harper tossed him a ball and Mari met the Presidents. All in all, a fun night at the ball park!

In general, we’ve been impressed at how clean the city is, and the grid layout makes getting around a breeze. We’ve noticed how friendly everyone is here — from the employees at the historic sites to concession workers. Even the kids have noticed this is definitely not the northeast.

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Our nations capital

Today we began our summer 2017 family adventure: Washington DC, Virginia and North Carolina.

Started the afternoon with a visit to the Smithsonian Museum of American History where we saw Archie Bunker’s chair, Indiana Jones’ hat and whip, Lincolns hat, and many more American treasures. Big D enjoyed all of the weapons in the historical exhibit.

(Side note: when we walked through the halls of the hotel D exclaimed “oh this place is pet friendly!” when in fact it was room service plates left outside a hotel room door on the floor.)
After the museum, we walked to the White House to view the exterior. Pouring rain today so our plans for the evening (Marine barracks parade) were cancelled. 

Dinner at Del Friscos Grille and then a twilight walk in the rain to the Washington Monument. We were soaked from a day of siteseeing in the rain, but otherwise a good start to the trip!

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Last day in London

It’s been a long day to end a long trip. No scones or crumpets this trip. No visits to Abbey Road or Jane Austen’s house or Stonehenge or Bath. And you know what? I’ve been here five times now and it’s ok that I haven’t done everything that I want to do. I’m very fortunate, and I’ll be back.

This morning I met a colleague for breakfast and had a very successful client meeting. It’s so rewarding to know that I am making a positive impact for my company. 

Taxi’d to my office and spent the afternoon catching up colleagues — many whom I’ve worked with for years but never met face to face. The team has two tv screens in their area of the office, so when the news hit about the tragedy in London today, less than a mile from the office, I went into crisis management mode doing what I needed to do for my job. I’ll forgo commenting here on the response of my colleagues and many others around the city — let’s just say for this public forum that I was disappointed by the actions of the people I interacted with over the next six hours. 

After my plans to finally have an afternoon of tea and scones were foiled, and taxis and uber wouldn’t bring me back across the river in the direction of my hotel (or a restaurant I was hoping to check out), I made my way to the Underground.

By 9:30pm, I was back at the pub where I had dinner at last night, still in the heels that I had put on 15 hours earlier. Grateful for the bartender from last night who remembered me and within minutes had my dinner and beer ready. Apropos that the beer I wanted to try wasn’t available last night, but tonight it was! The message on the Flying Dog Easy IPA bottle reads: “They say that life isn’t easy.” Well ain’t that the truth. My thoughts and prayers for those affected by today’s horrible actions. 

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Visiting Windsor

Started my day on a walk through Hyde Park over to Kensington Garden. Windy, damp and overcast. 

Took the train from Paddington to Windsor (changing in Slough), dropped off my bag at the hotel, and had a quick lunch at Monty before heading to Windsor Castle. 

I loved Windsor Castle…the extravagance, the history…the audio guide was very good and plenty of knowledgeable staff on hand to answer questions. I stared at the corgi merchandise in the gift shops for ages! I was chatting with a shop keeper inside the grounds when a man walking his hound came over to say hello. It was obvious he lived and worked on the grounds, and one thing led to another, and it turns out his hound played with the queens corgis that very morning. So I pet a dog that rolled around the queens dogs…that’s like six degrees of separation from royalty, right?


As I wandered around the shops and side streets of Windsor that afternoon, I found myself on the Eton College campus. I knew of their prestigious alumni but totally had forgotten about the tailcoats! I kept thinking of D not wanting to wear a collared shirt because it looks too fancy, and here these future husbands for Miss M are so properly dressed.


A lot of private primary schools here with little ones in uniforms as well. There were not many tourists in Windsor so it was wonderful. Lots of shops and cute streets and pubs. I felt like I was intruding on the life of Windsor residents, as most people come to the town, see the castle and leave.  Walking around was a great experience.


My colleague lives in Windsor so we met for dinner at Two Brewers. I enjoyed house made pate to start and fish cakes with frites for dinner — delish! It was wonderful to hear about her life in and around Windsor. 

At the end of the day, I ended up walking ten miles…phew!

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Countryside road trip

Today my colleague and I drove 90 minutes from Windsor to the town of Hursley in Hampshire England where my employer has a large estate turned research laboratory. The site was beautiful — cricket and tennis courts, rolling green hills, Queen Anne architecture. The drive to Hursley took us through the beautiful English countryside, even if things aren’t green yet for spring. 

At the end of the day, my colleague drove me 2+ hours back to Slough where I then hopped on an express train to Paddington (see Paddington Bear statue.)


For dinner in London I enjoyed pork sausages, cabbage and onions in brown gravy at the The Chapel pub..so yummy! They had a few craft beers so I enjoyed a Rocky Head Brewery American Pale Ale bottled six months ago in London. It was good but a little too hoppy for my taste. 

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London observations

First, my room at the Hilton was a bit puzzling. There was a bottle opener built into the vanity next to the shower…for all those of bottles of beer one might drink while trying to maneuver the hand held shower nozzle?

Second, I quickly got used to looking the other way for incoming traffic before crossing the street. 

Third, at the pub for dinner, I forgot British chips meant fries, and that British crisps are chips, when I ordered a sandwich at the pub last night, but was happy to find vinegar to go with the chips at the table. And I was puzzled by the sandwich I ordered, an “aged cheddar and caramelized onion bloomer.” Turns out a bloomer is a type of bread, and the bartender was puzzled when I was asking him what a bloomer was — he kept saying it was a sandwich but since it was in the “sandwich” part of the menu I was confused. Anyway….

Fourth, I’m surprisingly having a hard time with the accents. It’s happened at the pubs, coffee shops, and stores – I need to ask the staff to repeat things. I didn’t have trouble at the office, and can tell the difference between colleagues from the south of England versus the north, but something about the quick and casual conversations have been harder than I expected. 

And finally, the British currency I had saved from 15 years ago is no longer used here…it was worth approx $10 back then and now it turns out is worth a lot more on eBay. I’ve had no cash on hand which is fine.

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London

This week I’m in London to meet with a client and some colleagues. I took the Virgin Atlantic overnight flight and was very impressed — in coach, we received a travel bag of nice amenities, a hot moist towelette in the morning, every flight attendant was super friendly, they even came around with a basket of candies…. it was overall a very pleasant experience. The flight was half empty so I had four seats to stretch out and sleep.  
The Heathrow express train was super easy — 20 mins to Paddington station and my hotel was a short walk away. 
That afternoon I explored London via the Underground (aka tube) to Brick Lane, a very artsy and eclectic area. Curry houses, vintage markets, tons of food stalls, street performers and a lot of street art.
I went to Kings Cross to find Platform 9 3/4, took the train to Piccadilly Circus, walked to Trafalgar Square to take part of the Irish festival in honor of St Patrick’s Day, made my way to where the changing of the guard takes place, swung by 10 Downing Street, and at Westminster Abbey I hopped back on the train towards Paddington. 
Grabbed an aged cheddar and caramelized sandwich at a pub located across the street from where Alexander Fleming invented penicillin before heading back to the hotel. 

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Au revoir, France

This morning we walked to the Notre Dame Marche (market) near our hotel. The outdoor market is named after Notre Dame cathedral in Versailles, not to be confused with Notre Dame in Paris.  It’s the oldest church in Versailles and the place where the French Revolution began.  The indoor market had butcheries and fish vendors while the outdoor market had dozens of vendors selling fruits, cheeses, and vendor weaving baskets that we saw many Parisians using to carry their tiny dogs or baguettes.

After a breakfast of croissants we walked to the public park that borders the palace gardens. We rented bikes and spent an hour cycling around the canal. What a beautiful public park…rows of perfectly manicures and evenly spaced trees, and nice views of the Palace gardens. It was comfortable in the shade and good to get some light exercise before boarding the long plane ride home.



Overall, the trip has been a success. Miss M has fallen in love with the beauty of Paris and atmosphere of eating pintxos and tapas in Spain. D loved all the opportunities to swim. And each day Paul and I reflected on how fortunate we are to be able to give this experience to our children.

We’re already discussing where we’ll head next…any guesses?

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