Lilla Travels

We’ve traveled to a lot of major European cities — Rome, Milan, Berlin, Vienna, London, Dublin, Paris, Yerevan, Barcelona and more — and while we’ve enjoyed our time here, I think I’d put Athens at the bottom of the list. It’s super crowded, dirty and the architecture is severely lacking. We all remarked that we won’t miss the hustling found in the tourist centers. But that isn’t to say it was all bad. The food is fantastic everywhere (and relatively cheap), the Greeks all speak English well, the rooftop bar scene is very cool, and there’s a great energy, as in all of those cities mentioned above.

Reflecting on the trip:

• D enjoyed all the whole foods: every meal had a starch, vegetables, protein. Beers are cold and all the dishes are piping hot. The greatest moment for him was visiting Klio’s farm in Olympia. It was a pure moment. He also really liked the towns of Agrostoli and Ancient Olympia.
• While she was only with us for a week, Miss M loved the Tzatziki and the pools at the resort.
• Paul loved driving around the Islands, walking to the castle in Assos with D, picking up Ms. M from the airport with a sign, and all the beaches and the incredible color of the Ionian Sea.
• And as I wrote previously, I’m happiest at sea level. The beaches and pools were my favorite part of this trip and already feels like such a distant memory.

We ended our trip with a walk up Lycabettus Hill (the highest point in central Athens) for a 360 degree view of Athens at sunset. Our third sunset of the trip! While it was packed with tourists, like everything else in Athens, it was a nice way to end the trip, looking out at the Olympic Stadium, the Acropolis, the port of Piraeus and the sprawl of white buildings spreading from the mountain to the sea.

We couldn’t just end with a sunset, though. Dinner at 10pm in the Plaka at O Thanasis again: tsatsiki, saganaki cheese, three kebab wraps and a pork souvlaki platter for Paul.

A quick dessert at Bufala Gelato before we wrapped the night at Attic Bar which had an amazing view of the Acropolis (and lots of girls posing on their rooftop swings with the Acropolis in the background.)

The breeze was blowing, the music was pumping, drinks were flowing and the tourists of Athens were ready to party while we called it a night at 1 AM for a 5:30 AM taxi to the airport. A beautiful end to another beautiful vacation.

Today is our last full day in Athens and we had no set schedule. We had a leisurely morning, popping in and out of some stores, toured the Central Market, and found another place to try hand pies for brunch: chicken with bacon for D, mushroom for me, Miss M thought she ordered “pizza” but it was a ham and pepper pie, and Paul had a cheese pie which was more like a closed pocket versus the triangle wedge shape we were having.

After more shopping we popped by Little Kook, a popular Alice in Wonderland themed dessert place but didn’t stay long due to the crowds. We grabbed coffee, pineapple juice and beer at a nearby cafe.

After dropping our purchases off at the hotel, we went to Dr. Fish, a day spa and nail bar. We embraced what the rehabbing shark said in Finding Nemo: “Fish are friends, not food” and went for the ten minute treatment. Paul had been to Dr Fish several years ago when he chaperoned his school’s culture trip to Italy and Greece, so this was one of the experiences he wanted to share with us. Paul and I sat for the treatment where you submerge your feet into the tub and the fish nibble off your dead skin. D sat in the chair but couldn’t stand his feet being nibbled on for more than five seconds because it tickled, and Miss M avoided the treatment completely.

After the “spa” it was time for more walking and food so back to Pan Dora we went. Majority of pies were gone for the day but we were happy to enjoy more spinach and mushroom pies while watching them prepare pies for the next day.

At 7:15am we met up with our guide Natalia and quickly made our way to the Acropolis to beat the heat and the crowds. We spent four hours with her walking through the site and the museum which was built only a few years ago.

The Acropolis was much larger than I expected and it’s truly breathtaking to envision it in its former state.

After all that time touring we were hungry, of course! Miss M had a Nutella crepe and smoothie but the rest of us held out for a storefront the guide told us about just a block away: Pan Dora. We had some delicious pies for brunch: mushroom for me, chicken for Damian, spinach and cheese for Paul. Absolutely delicious!

After resting a bit, we walked ten minutes towards Parliament to see the changing of the guards.

Then, more shopping before returning to the hotel for naps (for some of us.) Paul couldn’t sit still so he continued on by foot to The Panhellenic Stadium, the site of the first modern Olympic games in 1896. It’s the only all marble stadium in the world (we think) and inside are all the torches from all the past games.

D and I met Paul at Loukamades for a late afternoon snack: a “classic”box of loukamades with cream ice cream, honey, cinnamon and almonds. And an order of “Grandpas Special” which was loukamades with kaimaki ice cream, bugatsa cream filling, powdered icing sugar and cinnamon.

We then walked around some more, popping into different stores, and made our way to Ergon House, a fishmonger/hotel/store all rolled into one. It’s like a very tiny Eataly. Paul and I enjoyed aperol spritzes and D had a Kinder bueno cheesecake with chocolate and blackberry filling.

We went to O Geros tou Moria tavern for dinner. It’s in a touristy area but they have live music and occasionally a trio of dancers performed. Forgot to take food pics, but we ordered zucchini fritters, stuffed grape leaves, a cheese stuffed patty of meat, chicken souvlaki and mussels. It was our first day in almost three weeks without a Greek salad.

At one point, the dancers were pulling people up from the tables so they grabbed D and had him dancing with another girl who was traveling with a large group. At another point the musicians played an Armenian song we knew but with Greek words, but when they saw us singing along in Armenian they switched languages for the second and third verse.

After dinner we walked back to Loukamades for more desserts: hot loukamades swimming in honey and cinnamon, and loukamades with Snickers ice cream, chocolate praline, Kinder bueno & hazelnuts.

This morning we taxi’d outside of the city center to meet our guide for the day, Tolis (short for Apostolis.) It’s record breaking hot in Athens so we were happy to escape the heat for a day trip in an air conditioned van with five others.

After a few hours drive we reached Delphi. Greek’s believe that Apollo’s sanctuary at Delphi was the center of the world. There’s various stories as to the origin of the site — Zeus threw a rock and it landed at the site; two eagles let loose in opposite directions and they converged on Delphi, etc. Today it’s a UNESCO heritage site and there’s a decent sized accompanying museum.

Due to the heat, the site was closing at Noon so we had one hour to walk through which was plenty of time. We walked among the ruins, including the treasury, the theater and the Temple of Apollo, which was the sight of the oracle. After exploring the museum and its’ artifacts, Tolis and our driver took us to a town 30 minutes away called Arachova which is a popular resort town in winter as skiing is 30 minutes over the next mountain. Set high on the mountain and overlooking an endless valley of olive trees, it was very picturesque.

We grabbed lunch: spaghetti for Miss M, Greek salad and what I thought was a cheese boereg for me but it ended up being a ham and cheese spring roll thing (bouregkakia), zucchini flowers, pork chops for Paul and a burger stuffed with cheese for D.

Afterwards, we walked a bit, saw the exterior of St. George’s church, and then had milkshakes to help keep ourselves cool from the heat.

Subway back to the hotel and then a rest in the air conditioning.

We did some clothes shopping, which we always like to do when in Europe since the prices are so good, and then went to Tylixto for gyros: an XL pork and chicken combo for Paul, chicken for me, pork no fries for D, pork for Miss M.

We strolled a bit after dinner, D grabbed a trio of semifreddo pops and then we went to 360 Cocktail Bar for drinks with a view of the Acropolis. A great way to end the night!

Yesterday we left the spacious luxury and calm of the resort for the congested city of Athens.

But first, a few final thoughts on the Grecotel experience:

• We loved having a suite with our own pool and outdoor space. The privacy and convenience made this leg of the trip very special.
• Paul and I teamed up and attempted to play tennis against D and we lost all three matches
• We tried to take advantage of everything the resort had to offer, from aqua aerobics to lounging in the outdoor bed swings to using the outdoor gym and indoor pool and beach and other services and yet there was still more to experience. Paul noticed electric bikes when we were about to check out.
• All of the hotel staff were friendly and attentive and just wonderful in general. The resort never felt crowded and there was no jostling for poolside or beachside chairs like we’ve experienced at other hotels
• D enjoys every type of pool and for some reason loved the indoor pool with its Grecian columns and massage jets, but none of us wanted to be indoors with him. Wasn’t our private pool and the enormous zero entry pool and beach enough?

The hotel drove us to our 7th and final stop: Athens!!

We grabbed lunch (finally a gyro for Miss M), shopped around the plaka and monistiraki flea market and then rested a bit before grabbing dinner a block from our hotel. We had some of the usuals — chicken souvlaki, Greek salad and a gyro platter. We also enjoyed zucchini croquettes and Paul ordered arnaki lemonato, a lamb roast with a lemon cream sauce and potatoes. The waiter unplated the roast from a clay pot table side. It was piping hot!

We’re ready for the city and the heat!

Cape Sounio is at the southernmost tip of a peninsula about 40 minutes south of Athens and it’s where we’ve spent the past few days of our trip. Its main site is the Temple of Poseidon, perched on a cliff and surrounded by the sea.

We’re staying at a resort during our time here, so our activities include breakfast, pool, beach, snack, pool, eat again, stroll around and then pass out from the food coma. The boys have worked out and went to play tennis, but Miss M and I have enjoyed catching up and relaxing.

Throughout the resort there are views of the Temple of Poseidon in the distance.

It’s been hot here so we don’t have much energy to do anything. Yesterday the staff brought around trays of watermelon slices poolside. Typically we eat our meals outside looking at the view of Poseidons Temple but yesterday morning it was muggy — which it hadn’t been all trip — so we opted for dining with AC.

The buffet has been unlike anything we’ve ever experienced and so far no two meals have been the same. On one night, for example, we counted:

At one station: 7 types of bread, three cheeses, two cured meats, 5 types of sushi, a bartender making two types of cocktails, more than a dozen dried fruits and nuts and seeds, and randomly a taco.

At the appetizer station: 12 different apps plus a dozen accoutrements including olives, hummus, tsatsiki, and other dips.

At the salad station: nine bowls of different salads plus seven bowls of individual vegetables, three types of dressings in shot glasses.

At another station: 11 entrees, spaghetti with red sauce or meat sauce, two types of pizza or calzone, and someone preparing a main whether it was gyros to order, slicing beef Wellington, or serving a whole fish baked in a salt cask.

On the dessert table: 17 items including melons, peaches, fruit bowls. Plus a crepe station and four types of ice cream.

All of the food has been delicious, all with a view of the Temple.

One morning the hotel brought us to view the Temple of Poseidon, just a five minute ride from the resort. The temple was built in the 5th Century BC and is one of the three main temples in Greece (the others being the Parthenon in Athens and a temple in Aegina.)

This temple is perched on a cliff, looking out to Cape Sounion and the Aegean Sea. According to Greek mythology, Poseidon’s power is second to only Zeus. As the god of the sea, the sailors and fishermen of ancient Greece prayed to Poseidon to keep them safe from storms and shipwrecks and often left animal sacrifices and other gifts at the temple.

We walked around a bit and marveled at the well preserved temple and its architecture.

The next stop (#4) on this adventure is Meteora — a UNESCO world heritage site. Meteora is six monasteries perched atop rock formations that reach upwards of 1800 feet. The word Meteora is derived from a Greek word meaning “suspended between sky and earth” and the sight of the monasteries perched on these unusual pillars coming up from Earth is a sight to behold. (Google Meteora for drone pics.)

We checked in to our hotel late yesterday (Wednesday), and since we were less than ten minutes from Meteora, the boys explored the area last night climbing on rocks, going into caves and watching the sun set.

They had dinner at Taverna Bakaliaraka enjoying (according to D) the best Greek salad of the trip because it was swimming in dressing and has the largest chunk of feta. They had sausages and brought me spicy feta dip and bread so I could eat dinner while working.

The hotel, Doupiani House, was adorable. The closest you can get to Meteora, nothing fancy, but the staff, the view and the breakfast couldn’t be beat.

Our favorites at their breakfast buffet was the simit cookies (only know the Armenian word for them), rice pudding, halva (which we hadn’t seen since Olympia) and spinach bouregs. A lot of additional food was offered — salads, ham, cheese, yogurt, etc, but we were excited by the aforementioned things. It was also the first hotel with good coffee and the hotel staff made a point to tell us that everything they served was homemade.

By 9:10am we were parked at the Great Meteoron monastery and saw four others by 1:30pm. They were all unique and the views were incredible, but it was also hot. I brought my portable fan and had a thin wrap that I used to cover my head and arms in the sun.

There was 30+ monasteries at one time and now only six remain. A different one is closed each day of the week so we didn’t get to see the inside of Holy Trinity. It’s only a few euros to enter a monastery but you need to be properly dressed. We came prepared but it was fun to watch the nuns yell at men in Greek who didn’t wear pants. I heard one of the ticket takers say “the nuns do not like knees.”

At lunch time it was 103 degrees. We dined on Greek salad, feta stuffed peppers, chicken souvlaki and pasta bolognese at Taverna Gardenia Plakias.

Leaving the small town, the car registered 107.6 degrees. It took four hours, including a brief pit stop for an espresso and ice cream to get to the city of Athens — our next stop.

Before checking into our hotel, we visited Olympic Park to see the stadium (they were setting up for the Guns and Roses show) and we tried to enter the basketball arena where the “Redeem Team” won in 2004 (and spoke with a man affiliated with the Hellenic Basketball Federation) but it was all locked up.

We’re staying by the airport tonight (Thursday, stop #5 on the trip) to pick up Miss M for the last week of this adventure.

Today we left the Greek islands portion of our trip. A few last observations:

• Oregano is everywhere. Pull over to the side of the road to gaze at the scenic view? You can smell oregano. Want chips at the supermarket? Oregano Lays or Ruffles. Atop the feta in a Greek salad? Check.
• We didn’t realize honey was such a thing. All over the islands there have been old women and men selling honey roadside….everywhere.
• We also didn’t expect to see so many pumpkins and squash. We stopped at a roadside stand (see below) on the mainland to get some fruit (and a red onion for D) and for under three euros got plenty of snacks for the day.
• The islands are a prime spot for selfies and boyfriends taking pics of their girlfriends. We’ve seen so many girls in tiny bathing suits and barely their dresses posing for the camera.
• At one point D commented that we were living with nature. The doors to the hotel lobby are always open, there are no doors separating the outside and the hallways of each floor, no doors to the dining area, etc. At the hotel there were butterflies, cats roaming the hallways and rooftop pool/bar/dining area, we heard a rooster each morning, and because of the openness of the building birds had formed nests a top the electrical boxes strewn with wires.
• There are stray cats everywhere. D formed an affinity to a white cat who visited him each day at the sitting area outside our door. We’ve seen male cats praying on females.
• We’ve seen soccer and basketball courts every day of this trip, but no one playing on them.
• And finally, we noticed the bottom parts of trees are painted white. Google tells us it’s a combo of Lyme, salt and water used to prevent insects from crawling up the tree damaging the trunk and its fruit.

By 10am we drove through Lefkada Town on our way to the causeway to get off the island, and it was the first time we were in a place that to me felt authentically Greek. Everywhere we’ve gone there have been license plates representing what feels like every European country, people speaking Italian, German, Portuguese, the waitstaff speak English to us (and in one case Italian.) But Lefkada Town, being a city and not a beach town, felt much more authentic. Clothing and home goods stores, cafes, and all kinds of shops. And for the first time I saw people who looked more middle eastern Greek.

By lunchtime we were in Metsovo, an adorable little town that looked like a mixture of German, Japenese (with all the wood), and bits of Alberobello Italy in the style of roof. D scoped out a great place for gyros and we wandered in an out of shops for a bit.

Surrounding Metsovo the smell was intoxicating. We pulled over on the highway leaving town so D could hop the fence to pick a bouquet of the wildflowers that smelled so nice. Turns out they are spartium or “Spanish broom” which is an invasive species that flowers in late summer found mostly in southern Europe, southwest Asia and northwest Africa.

By late afternoon we were in Kastraki at the base of Meteora. Our hotel has a beautiful view of the monasteries and is the perfect place to spend the night since I needed to work again.

More on Meteora tomorrow.

Yesterdays BOTD was Mylos. You can reach Mylos a few ways:

• By boat
• By foot

From the pedestrian area where our hotel located is in Agios Nikitas, there’s a narrow dirt path that takes you up and over the mountain to the Mylos beach.

A 15-20 min hike in “feels like 101 degrees”heat gave us this view:

Upon reaching the shore, we immediately threw our things down at the nearest sun-bed/umbrella combo and ran into the sea. Clear blue water, sand, and while there are pebbles leading to the beach, for some reason these don’t hurt to walk on.

The fish found a small cut on Paul’s leg and proceeded to nibble on him for brunch.

Boat loads of people got dropped off at the beach, 20 at a time, but it never felt crowded.

There was a man walking the beach selling spinach and cheese pies and an assortment of pastries and drinks. Everything looked delicious, but we had just ordered ham and cheese sandwiches from the one stand at the top of a sand dune.

It amazes me that there is absolutely nothing in the water or on the beach. No seaweed. No trash. No plastic. I saw a cigarette butt yesterday for the first time. I’ve noticed less people smoking in Greece although there are ashtrays everywhere; lots of vaping including parents sitting at the dinner table with their kids.

As the day grew longer, the sand and rocks were painfully hot to walk on requiring that we wear our shoes down to the shore.

After four hours I hiked back over the mountain, returning to the hotel to work the rest of the day/night. Paul and Damian hung out a little longer and eventually trekked back and went straight to the hotel pool.

Since I had to work this evening, the boys brought me a chicken souvlaki and then later returned to the same spot for pork gyros: D’s in a sandwich pita and Paul’s in a deconstructed “Portion” as the Greeks call it.

After dinner, the boys took a walk and ended up sitting by the beach which they remarked that even later at the night, the water here is special.

Remember when I said some of the most beautiful beaches in Greece are on the Ionian islands? Today’s BOTD was Porto Katsiki and it was absolutely stunning. Sheer cliffs, turquoise water, white pebbles leading to the water and some patches of sand.

After parking for 10 Euro, we descended 86 stairs to the beach and found a spot for the day. There’s no sun beds here but we were prepared: borrowed a beach umbrella from the hotel, had our European style beach towels that we brought with us from the last trip, peaches and plenty of sunscreen.

The water was calm, cool and refreshing. The occasional wave (if you could even call it a wave) caused by one of the many tour boats going around the island.

All day there was a man walking up and down the beach with a tray piled high with donuts for sale.

Lunch was pork gyros and mythos beer, delivered to us on the beach by the people who ran the small parking lot.

After 5 hours at the beach we made our way to Cafe Panorama which Paul had read about ahead of time. A small place for a cold drink or snack with barstools perched over the sea and a beautiful view.

Late afternoon we enjoyed a swim and aperol spritzes by the pool.

For dinner we started with a cooked tomato, feta and spicy pepper dish. I had a Greek salad, Paul had octopus and calamari, and D had chicken souvlaki.

For dessert the boys had gelato and I had portokalopita (orange cake) which was so good.

We’re one week into our three week trip and the boys are already nice and dark. D is evenly tan all over only using sunblock on his face. Paul’s athletic trainer tan has evened out and I’m still pale but getting there!

Despite being surrounded by water, the country is experiencing a water crisis. Fresh water is delivered to many of the islands and they cannot keep up with tourist demands.

The topography on the islands has been interesting. The mountains are dry, rocky and it’s amazing any vegetation survives at all. The heat, dryness and high winds make for the perfect conditions for wildfires and we saw one pop up last night on the hill directly across from our hotel. As we were going to bed we heard fire trucks arriving on the scene to put it out.

This morning we awoke to the sound of a helicopter and it sounded like they were landing on top of the hotel. It practically did. For at least 90 minutes the helicopter circled above the hotel dropping water onto the dry land. It filled up its water reservoir in the ocean, flew over the hotel, dumped water on the mountain, and went back to the beach to fill up again. We lost track of how many runs it made.

Our third stop on this trip is the island of Lefkada, which is about the size of Martha’s Vineyard.

From where our ferry docked in Vasiliki we drove to the town of Nydri where we hiked (in the shade) up to the Nydri Falls and took a dip in the very cold pool of water at its base. At several spots, on the way back down from the falls, we stopped and navigated the rocks to cool off in the stream.

I’m very lucky to have Paul and D as they helped me navigate the slippery rocks, carry my bag to and from the beach, wheel my luggage for me.

The falls aren’t very large but it was pretty nonetheless and a cool pit stop on an otherwise hot day. This is the first day where it truly felt hot. The sun has been strong but we haven’t been sweaty. The temps are in the 90s and it’s get hotter when we move inland.

After the falls we went to Nydri beach, finding a spot for Mythos beers, spicy feta dip and olives. D enjoyed a smoothie and a large bowl of yogurt with honey.

By 6pm we were in Agios Nikitas, checked into our hotel, and sitting poolside with aperol spritzes. While D enjoyed splashing around in the pool by himself, he’s missing his sister (sometimes) and remarked earlier that we’ll see her in six days.

Dinner tonight at Asperous Taverna where we started with feta wrapped in phyllo dough with sesame and honey. Paul had lamb knuckle on a purée of pumpkin, carrot and sweet potato. D has chicken souvlaki and I opted for two appetizers: mushrooms in a tomato sauce and dolmades.

Around 11pm we spotted a brush fire on the hill just above downtown Agios Nikitas. They are a common occurrence in the summer in Greece but unnerving nonetheless.

Staying in the town of Agrostoli has been great — tons of restaurants, a bustling community with a huge town square, lots of shops, fruit markets, groceries, etc. One of the Ionian University campuses is right down the road.

The only thing separating our AirBnB and the bay is a one way road. The bay is lined with fishing boats and multiple places to eat.

There’s a footbridge to cross the bay, and a steep mountain (with trotting goats) that we’ve crossed almost every day on the trip. That’s the only downside of Agrostoli, and we knew that going in to this trip. Everything outside of Agrostoli is a drive around the island.

At the base of the footbridge is a Greek church with a spiral staircase leading to the bell tower.

Last night we went into the St Nicholas Catholic Church on the main drag with all the people and shops. The doors to the churches are always open, so from the street Paul had noticed the distinctive cross on the altar: the cross of Saint Damian! I researched the church and can’t figure out why the church of St Nicolas would have Saint Damians cross on the altar.

While Sting dreamt of blue turtles, I’ve dreamt of Kefalonian turtles since learning Agrostoli is is known for them. They’re in the harbor overnight and follow the fishing boats into the bay in the morning, where they stay all day. They are 500 pound turtles, you can’t feed or touch them or they’ll bite your hand off, and we enjoyed looking for them. According to the wildlife protection people walking around, the best time to see the turtles is after 9am when the water is calm. When we’ve returned from the beach late afternoon, the bay is choppier so they are still visible but the water isn’t as clear. Fortunately, we all caught sights of them at different times.

All week D has been wanting to have breakfast at one of the restaurants on the bay, so our last stop on this island was for waffles and sweet and savory crepes.

After winding around multiple mountains again and spotting goats trotting around the side of the road, we made our way to the northernmost part of Kefalonia and the town of Fiskardo. An adorable port lined with 40+ sailboats, yachts and places to grab a Greek coffee.

Four men guided Paul’s car onto the small ferry which departed an hour after it was scheduled for. The car is currently wedged next to a van carrying braids of garlic. The fog has rolled in as the ferry passes Ithaca and we’re staying cool on the upper deck ready for our next stop of this journey.

Boarding the ferry with our Nissan Pulsar was easy thanks to a lovely energetic man who had Paul reversing up a ramp and into a spot.

The ferry is like a cruise ship inside: a movie theatre, multiple styles of lounges, a dark little room with sea turtles on the walls giving an under water vibe, and D counted four espresso machines.

Many times D remarked on how clean the port water is…a beautiful, clear blue. No seaweed or trash.

A little over an hour later we arrived in Kefalonia – an island three times the size of Martha’s Vineyard. After disembarking Paul drove 45 mins to our hotel – up up up the side of a mountain that resembled our drives in Puglia and Amalfi: no guardrails, barely enough space for two vehicles, homes and storefronts perched precariously on the side of the road. Paul said it was “breathtaking” with the views of the sea “but not nearly as harrowing as the amalfi coast” and D said “it was very dope.”

The AirBnB is situated one story above a flower shop. A huge living room, eat in kitchen with laundry, two bedrooms, one bath, and a huge roof deck overlooking the boardwalk. There are people dining outside along the bay. D remarked at 8pm people were drinking pre-dinner espressos getting hyped up for dinner.

We walked a half dozen blocks to the main square in downtown Argostoli. More shops and restaurants, packed with people eating and strolling, little kids running around and a stray dog running and barking, chasing after a drone up above. Dinner at Ladokola https://barbecue-restaurant-230.business.site/ for a Greek salad, a pork gyro platter for me and grilled meats for two for D and Paul. A ton of food but everything was so good.

After dinner we strolled up and down the street popping in and out of shops. There are so many people I don’t know where they all came from – and it’s only a Tuesday night!

We ended the night at a cafe on the bay for a cocktail. It’s not humid, the boats are all lit up on the water, and there’s a table full of people singing Greek songs a few tables down from us.