Our third stop on this trip is the island of Lefkada, which is about the size of Martha’s Vineyard.
From where our ferry docked in Vasiliki we drove to the town of Nydri where we hiked (in the shade) up to the Nydri Falls and took a dip in the very cold pool of water at its base. At several spots, on the way back down from the falls, we stopped and navigated the rocks to cool off in the stream.
Nydri falls One of the little pools resulting from the falls
I’m very lucky to have Paul and D as they helped me navigate the slippery rocks, carry my bag to and from the beach, wheel my luggage for me.
The falls aren’t very large but it was pretty nonetheless and a cool pit stop on an otherwise hot day. This is the first day where it truly felt hot. The sun has been strong but we haven’t been sweaty. The temps are in the 90s and it’s get hotter when we move inland.
After the falls we went to Nydri beach, finding a spot for Mythos beers, spicy feta dip and olives. D enjoyed a smoothie and a large bowl of yogurt with honey.
By 6pm we were in Agios Nikitas, checked into our hotel, and sitting poolside with aperol spritzes. While D enjoyed splashing around in the pool by himself, he’s missing his sister (sometimes) and remarked earlier that we’ll see her in six days.
Dinner tonight at Asperous Taverna where we started with feta wrapped in phyllo dough with sesame and honey. Paul had lamb knuckle on a purée of pumpkin, carrot and sweet potato. D has chicken souvlaki and I opted for two appetizers: mushrooms in a tomato sauce and dolmades.
Feta with sesame and honey
Around 11pm we spotted a brush fire on the hill just above downtown Agios Nikitas. They are a common occurrence in the summer in Greece but unnerving nonetheless.
Staying in the town of Agrostoli has been great — tons of restaurants, a bustling community with a huge town square, lots of shops, fruit markets, groceries, etc. One of the Ionian University campuses is right down the road.
The only thing separating our AirBnB and the bay is a one way road. The bay is lined with fishing boats and multiple places to eat.
View from footbridgeView from the other side of the bay
There’s a footbridge to cross the bay, and a steep mountain (with trotting goats) that we’ve crossed almost every day on the trip. That’s the only downside of Agrostoli, and we knew that going in to this trip. Everything outside of Agrostoli is a drive around the island.
At the base of the footbridge is a Greek church with a spiral staircase leading to the bell tower.
Last night we went into the St Nicholas Catholic Church on the main drag with all the people and shops. The doors to the churches are always open, so from the street Paul had noticed the distinctive cross on the altar: the cross of Saint Damian! I researched the church and can’t figure out why the church of St Nicolas would have Saint Damians cross on the altar.
While Sting dreamt of blue turtles, I’ve dreamt of Kefalonian turtles since learning Agrostoli is is known for them. They’re in the harbor overnight and follow the fishing boats into the bay in the morning, where they stay all day. They are 500 pound turtles, you can’t feed or touch them or they’ll bite your hand off, and we enjoyed looking for them. According to the wildlife protection people walking around, the best time to see the turtles is after 9am when the water is calm. When we’ve returned from the beach late afternoon, the bay is choppier so they are still visible but the water isn’t as clear. Fortunately, we all caught sights of them at different times.
Street artOne of the many fishermen
All week D has been wanting to have breakfast at one of the restaurants on the bay, so our last stop on this island was for waffles and sweet and savory crepes.
After winding around multiple mountains again and spotting goats trotting around the side of the road, we made our way to the northernmost part of Kefalonia and the town of Fiskardo. An adorable port lined with 40+ sailboats, yachts and places to grab a Greek coffee.
Four men guided Paul’s car onto the small ferry which departed an hour after it was scheduled for. The car is currently wedged next to a van carrying braids of garlic. The fog has rolled in as the ferry passes Ithaca and we’re staying cool on the upper deck ready for our next stop of this journey.
Today we took a boat tour around Zakynthos – an island to the south of Kefalonia. For years we’ve been wanting to visit Zakynthos to see one of Greece’s most photographed beaches: Navagio. Navagio is also known as shipwreck beach since a boat smuggling cigarettes wrecked here 40 years ago.
People flock to the lookout point atop the cliff to get a picture of the ship from above with the sun beaming down on the shore. It shows up on my social media feed regularly (recently with the tag of Revere Beach as a joke.) Tourists have taken their lives in their own hands trying to get a great view of the ship from above, resulting in several deaths. This year, the Greek government decided to ban visitors from going onto the beach and the lookout point over the shipwreck.
When we approached Navagio in the morning, cliffs cast a shadow over Navagio not giving the same vibe that we had been thinking about for years, though it was still cool to see the dramatic shear cliffs that surround the small beach and the shipwreck.
The second boat stop was the blue caves, Zakynthos’ version on the blue grotto. There were many caves formed along the coast by the wind and sea centuries ago. The boat took us around and close to one of the larger ones.
Our third stop was Alykanas, where we disembarked and walked to lunch at Neraida, right by the beautiful beach. The boys quickly swam in the warm water after lunch before we boarded the boat to return to Kefalonia.
Later that afternoon I worked while the boys went on a walk and did our last load of laundry for awhile.
For dinner, we went to Ampelaki about a half mile down the road from our AirBnB. We started with plump anchovies and tomatoes on bread, and pougakia which were described as “money bags of Messinia pastry” – chicken, mushrooms, cheese. For entrees I ordered moussaka, D had “Kreatopitta – the Kefalonian meat pie” of veal, pork, rice, tomatoes and herbs with handmade filo, and Paul had sea bream. We were stuffed!
Strolled through the city center that was filled with kids playing soccer, tons of people eating and drinking and strolling, shops selling Kefalonia trinkets of all types, and stray cats and dogs running everywhere. Finished the night with a glass of wine on the roof deck, listening to the singing of a group of men who perform greek folk songs every night at a restaurant on the bay.
Today began with another road trip in Kefalonia to see more of this beautiful island.
The first stop was the Drogarati Cave where descended 60 meters to view stalactites and stalagmites in a pretty vast open cave. It wasn’t quite as vast Luray Caverns that we visited years ago in Virginia, but impressive nonetheless.
Our second stop was 10 minutes away at the Melissani Lake — a cave with a large opening above, resulting from an earthquake. It takes 14 days for salt water to run from one side of the island in the capital of Argostoli (where we are staying) to Melissani Lake where it mixes with fresh water, and then exit out the bay of Sami. The water mixture combined with when the sun beats down on the cave opening results in the water looking a bright shade of blue. At times, it was clear enough to see all the way to the bottom. We spotted three eels in the water while the boat took us around the entire inside.
On our way to the third stop we wound our way up and down around Agia Dyanati, the 2nd highest mountain on the island, which gave us a great view of Myrtos beach from yesterday.
Next stop was the picturesque town of Assos, an adorable little seaside village with a small, beautiful, rocky beach. We grabbed lunch at Seaside cafe; we couldn’t beat the view with the beach literally at our feet and the small harbor, village and castle as our backdrop, while we ate Greek Salad, Italian salad, calamari, and a chocolate crepe for D. Afterwards, Paul and D walked up to the remains of a 16th century Venetian fortress/castle that was never finished. The views over Assos itself and the west coast of Kefalonia were incredible.
I took a spot at the “Little beach” just a short walk from the main beach where we had lunch.
After the walk, we all got some swimming in before heading back to Argostoli.
For dinner tonight, Paul and D returned to Ladokolla for more delicious meat. D got a pork gyro while Paul got the kontosouvli, a hunk of pork slow roasted on a rod over an open charcoal spit. Because I was working, the boys brought me back chicken souvlaki.
Search your social media platform of choice on “top beaches in Greece” and you’ll learn that the top beaches aren’t in Mykonos, Santorini, or the more popular Aegean island chains. Some of the top beaches in the country are on Kefalonia, Zakinthos and Lefkada — all islands we’re visiting this trip.
The BOTD (beach of the day) was Myrtos Beach and it did not disappoint. The sliver of beach is sandwiched between two mountains resulting in two kilometers of winding road to get down to the beach which has sky blue water and bright white pebbles. Only ten euro for two sun beds and a thatched hut for shade.
2pm – this is as crowded as it got.
Pictures just don’t do it justice. I recommend a quick google search.
Several yachts joined us for the day. D saw a jellyfish and there were a few tiny fish in the water, but otherwise it was clear.
Driving to Myrtos tested my patience again. Winding around the mountains, peering over the cliffs as Paul whipped us around the corners without guard rails, and other vehicles passing us in the process, was not enjoyable. I need to remain at sea level at all times.
Food wise today has been uneventful:
Breakfast on our rooftop patio was yogurt, honey and rice pudding from the supermarket, a croissant and espressos from the bakery on our block, and fruit provided by the AirBnB host.
Oregano-flavored potato chips for lunch on the beach.
Pita and tsatsiki for an afternoon snack.
Dinner took place between work meetings for me – so a quick Nescafé frappe with ice cream for me, an aperol spritz for Paul, and a cheesecake and an ice cream for D.
And, the coffee scene here has left a lot to be desired. Tried Nescafé frappes twice and don’t see what all the fuss is about, and the Greek espressos have been undrinkable.
Boarding the ferry with our Nissan Pulsar was easy thanks to a lovely energetic man who had Paul reversing up a ramp and into a spot.
The ferry is like a cruise ship inside: a movie theatre, multiple styles of lounges, a dark little room with sea turtles on the walls giving an under water vibe, and D counted four espresso machines.
Many times D remarked on how clean the port water is…a beautiful, clear blue. No seaweed or trash.
A little over an hour later we arrived in Kefalonia – an island three times the size of Martha’s Vineyard. After disembarking Paul drove 45 mins to our hotel – up up up the side of a mountain that resembled our drives in Puglia and Amalfi: no guardrails, barely enough space for two vehicles, homes and storefronts perched precariously on the side of the road. Paul said it was “breathtaking” with the views of the sea “but not nearly as harrowing as the amalfi coast” and D said “it was very dope.”
The AirBnB is situated one story above a flower shop. A huge living room, eat in kitchen with laundry, two bedrooms, one bath, and a huge roof deck overlooking the boardwalk. There are people dining outside along the bay. D remarked at 8pm people were drinking pre-dinner espressos getting hyped up for dinner.
View from our rooftop deck
We walked a half dozen blocks to the main square in downtown Argostoli. More shops and restaurants, packed with people eating and strolling, little kids running around and a stray dog running and barking, chasing after a drone up above. Dinner at Ladokola https://barbecue-restaurant-230.business.site/ for a Greek salad, a pork gyro platter for me and grilled meats for two for D and Paul. A ton of food but everything was so good.
A cookie sheet full of food…meat, dips, veggies, pita
After dinner we strolled up and down the street popping in and out of shops. There are so many people I don’t know where they all came from – and it’s only a Tuesday night!
We ended the night at a cafe on the bay for a cocktail. It’s not humid, the boats are all lit up on the water, and there’s a table full of people singing Greek songs a few tables down from us.
This part of mainland Greece reminds me of southern Italy. In fact it’s disorienting. The same stucco buildings and boxy storefronts next to abandoned buildings with overgrown greenery. No clouds in the sky, corn stalks, palm trees, olive trees and the pink and white flowering bushes line the highways.
Similar to Italy, we still see cyprus trees but not as prevalent. Typically around cemeteries. I continue to ask but Paul tells me I can’t have them line the driveway in Belmont as they won’t survive the winter.
A few times I’ve caught myself wanting to respond to people in Italian; we approach a store or street sign and I expect to be able to read it in Italian and can’t. Instead of small shrines commemorating mother Mary or baby Jesus, there’s tiny Greek churches on the sides of the road.
Similar to Italy, we’ve passed a lot of vehicles that gave us giggles, too.
This morning we had a breakfast at our hotel of halva, eggs, breads and yogurt with various jams or honey.
We hired a tour guide to take us through the museum and archeological site of ancient Olympia, where the first games were held from 776 BC to 393 AD. The tour starts with the gymnasia where the athletes prepared, naked, for one month prior to the event. D was quick to remind me that he told me a month ago that “gymnasia” meant “naked” in Latin — score one for education!
I personally liked the fact that if an athlete was caught cheating, they had to fund the creation of a bronze statue that would be displayed, with the cheating athlete’s name on a pedestal, at the entranceway to the stadium as a reminder to future athletes. Our tour guide had treats for D and Paul after they finished racing at the stadium and did a nice job comparing what we saw to sites we’ve seen previously in Rome and other historic sites in Greece.
PhillippeionBases for the statues of cheaters
By noon we were back at the hotel pool having aperol spritzes.
Mid afternoon we grabbed a bite: a small gelato, a single lokhum for me, rice pudding for D which he said was sweeter and had less rice than the one he enjoys at the church bazaar. Paul got a gyro and an espresso.
Gyro without fries
Only day 2 of the trip and we’ve seen three basketball courts and D didn’t bring a ball! Right down the road from one of the courts was Klios Honey Farm.
Klio spent an hour with telling us all about her great grandmother as a bee keeper and how her great grandfathers chickens produced 5,000 eggs that were sent by train to Athens. Klio invited us into her beautiful yard where we sat under the shade of a massive 70 year old fig tree. She brought us water, juice, quince spoon treats and coffee and told us all about the honey production from her hives, brought us around the back of the house where she showed us the machine she uses to spin the honey from the hives, then she moved us into a room in the farmhouse that was converted into a museum with photos and history about honey, and finally brought us to another part of her yard under the shade of another fruit tree where she brought out plates of diples that she drenched in honey so we could sample her product. It was the best hour of the day.
Quince spoon treatsFig tree
We popped into a supermarket, one of my favorite things to do when traveling, to pick up snacks and waters for the trip, and went back to the archeological site to check out one of the other museums.
Another dip in the pool for the boys while I caught up on some work, and then dinner!
Dinner at Ambrosia Garden, near the entrance to the archeological site, was mixed: we enjoyed the tzatziki and toast, and Pauls pork souvlaki, but D’s deconstructed gyro was just ok with soggy fries and chewier meat. We all agreed my dolmades were excellent (grandma they were thicker and the meat to rice ratio was higher than what you could use), I ordered a glass of tsipouro (Greek grappa) which I couldn’t drink but D liked the house red. While eating, the secedes continued to chirp and stray dogs and cats strolled by. We watched a man and a little boy deliver braids of garlic to the restaurant.
Tsatsiki, olives and toasted bread, and tsipouroSouvlaki, gyro, dolmadesGarlic man
Yesterday we began a family trip to Greece that was three years in the making: cancelled in 2020 due to the pandemic; cancelled in 2021 due to Miss M’s torn ACL. And since things happen in threes we decided to break the curse and do Italy last year, so now it’s finally time for the original itinerary.
After a quick stopover in Frankfurt for 8am pretzels, schnitzel sandwiches and a few beers, we flew to Greece.
First stop on the mainland was the Corinth Canal where we refueled on espressos, a mortadella sandwich for D and a slice of pizza for Paul and I.
First impressions of mainland greece: reminds me of southern Italy: stucco homes with terra cotta roofs, farms, lots of olive trees, the occasional tiny town, dilapidated buildings and elderly people sitting in the shade watching the world go by.
By 6:30 we arrived at our first of six destinations on this trip: Olympia. As the sun set, Paul and D took a dip in the hotel pool while swarms of birds kept nose diving into the water.
Dinner at Taverna Orestis: a basket of thick sliced bread toasted with olive oil, salt and pepper with a Kalamata olive spread. We ordered saganaki (Greek mozz sticks) to start, a large Greek salad with a slab of feta for me, a platter of assorted grilled meats for the boys, and three pieces of halva for dessert which isn’t as sweet as Armenian halva. We polished off everything!
Saganaki, Greek salad Platter of grilled meat for two
This morning D went to the court to workout, Paul went for a walk and Miss M and I shopped for peaches, croissants and Nutella stuffed donuts.
By 10am we had four chairs and two umbrellas reserved at Blue Marine for our final day in the sun. It’s already 82 (with a feels like temp of 87.) Last night driving through the mountains it was 76. The first time we’ve felt a respite from the oppressive heat of the past two weeks.
Our friend Luca came to join us for the day. Luca and his family lived in Belmont for two years and our boys were on the same soccer team. Last week we were supposed to go to Ponza with their family for the day but plans changed when we were under the weather. It was nice to catch up with Luca and hear how life has been for him and his family during the pandemic.
Paul finally bought sweets from the beach vendor he’s seen daily but didn’t know what he was saying or selling. Turns out it’s a brand of Neapolitan sweets…like a sugary puff cookie with a hint of lemon.
Today there were no clouds (again) but thankfully there was a breeze which meant we could rest under the umbrella for long periods of time without getting too hot. It may not sound like a lot, but it made a huge difference in how we could enjoy the beach. We stayed until after 5pm and then walked to the tents selling crafts set up near the tower.
Paul and I enjoyed gelato (Nutella for Paul, and amarena and crostata con prune carmalata) and picked up croissant for Miss M’s breakfast tomorrow.
After 8pm we watched our last sunset and ate at Ristorante da Mari, the same restaurant we ate at the first night in Sperlonga. Caprese salad for D, margherita pizza for Miss M, roasted calamari for Paul, and spaghetti with mussels and clams for me.
Burrata and tomato appetizerCaprese saladMargherita pizzaCalamariSpaghetti with clams and mussels
The owner was happy to see us arrive for dinner and gave us the same table looking out at the basketball court and ocean. Their cat, Sammy, strolled around the restaurant looking for hand-outs, and D saw Andrea leaving the court and went to say goodbye. Andrea told him to come back next summer and stay with them as they have plenty of room. They are now connected on Instagram.
Over dinner we reminisced about our favorite parts of the trip: D loved nightlife in Munich and strolling around Pico. Miss M loved the boat and being on the beach. Paul enjoyed seeing his friends and visiting Pico again. And I enjoyed seeing everyone happy.
We wrapped up the night with gelato: Nutella for M, crostata con prune carmalata and babba, Paul got dark chocolate and coffee, D got crostata con prune carmalata and cremino.
Like clockwork, the magician, who we’ve already seen twice on this trip, started his performance again shortly after 10pm.
At 11pm, Paul and Miss M walked to the arts and crafts fair which was still going on at the base of the tower.
And there’s no sign of the nightlife in Sperlonga slowing down. People strolling the streets. Teens walking in packs. Overtired children being carried by their parents. And dishes clanking as many are eating dinner at sidewalk cafes after 11pm.
As they say, and the beat goes on. And Italy operates at a unique pace, with a beat all its own.
This morning Dad chartered a boat for us to go up and down the coast. We took the boat 8 miles down to the port of Gaeta and then worked our way back to Sperlonga stopping to swim multiple times and explore a couple of grottos. D, Dad and I all took turns driving the boat.
We had lunch at Blue Marine and sat on a upper level of the beach club with a view of the water. D had a pizza with seasonal roasted vegetables. Mom had a pizza with prosciutto, mushrooms, artichokes and olives. Dad had risotto with seafood. And I had a calzone.
Mom, D and I spent the late afternoon resting at the AirBnB. Dad spent the afternoon exploring Gaeta. He wanted to go back and check out the split mountain which was something he had spotted from the boat that morning.
Left: view from boat of sanctuary in the crack Right: sanctuary
We went back to the port for dinner at a restaurant called Il Porticiollo. The chef is from Pico and came and greeted our family when we arrived. We started with an appetizer of warm baccalà on toast. For our main dishes, Mom had a calamari dish with olives, red sauce and toasts. She also had a mini plate of anchovies. Damian had linguine with clams. Dad had a mixed grill of seafood including big shrimp, spigola and calamari. He also enjoyed a side of roasted peppers. I had a salad. After dinner we shared a platter of fresh fruit that included watermelon, cantaloupe and pineapple.
We finished the night with some gelato and watched another magician show in the plaza. We headed back to the AirBnB to get a good nights rest for our trip to Pico tomorrow!
On Tuesday we slept in. It wasn’t until 1pm when we headed north to Terracina, another beach community. Terracina has been inhabited since antiquity and there was a Roman template perched way above the town that we could see from the beach. We found a beach club to have lunch at (a yummy tuna salad for me, French fries, a chicken cutlet sandwich for Paul, and pasta with sauce for Miss M).
Tuna salad
And then spent a few hours at the public beach. It was windier in Terracina and the breeze and waves felt good.
View from the water, granita man shaving ice
After yesterday’s visit to Sal de Riso, the kids wanted more pastries so we stopped at La Bottega Dolceamare in Salto Covina on our way back to Sperlonga. A small place situated across from a fields of sunflowers, we had two waters, a piece of plum tart, a piece of apricot tart, a small rhumbaba, an oreo cheesecake square, a croissant that they stuffed fresh with Nutella…all for 8 Euro. We devoured it so quickly we didn’t get a pic. The kids went back inside for a second order to bring back to the AirBnB (see pic) for 12 Euro.
At night, D went to play basketball with his new friends, Miss M stayed in, and Paul and I went to Bar La Piazzetta in the borgo for drinks. D then joined us there for dinner. It was a relaxing evening sitting in the piazza, sipping cocktails and nibbling on prosciutto, cheese and melon.
Walking into the borgo, one of the many alleyways, tonight’s sunset Appetizer plate, prosciutto and melon, prosciutto and cheese plates for dinner
On Monday morning we drove south three hours through farms, towns, industrial areas, mountains, passing by palm trees, fruit trees, olive trees, the occasional herd of cows. So many spots I wanted to stop and take a photo of the sites but it wouldn’t be safe to stop abruptly and try to pull over with the craziness of the driving experience here.
The last 45 minutes of the drive wound us through the mountains of the amalfi coast — tight, somehow two lane roads with no visibility around the corners. Miss M stated she was not getting back in the car and D kept saying “whoa” and “this is insane” as Paul zipped us around corners and cars, busses and trucks passed us on the narrow road. D sat in the front seat and hugged Paul grateful for his life when we arrived at our destination.
Parked the car in Maiori and then walked around the bend to the town of Minori which we had stayed in twice previously. It was so nice to be back in the town and the kids were super excited too. It was a lot quieter than we had remembered previously which Ana (see next paragraph) said is because it was July and our previous visits had been in August. It’s July 26 and this week is the beginning of the peak summer season.
Video of Minori from the dock, entering Minori sign, I’ve always liked the exterior of this church in Minori, and my preferred way of getting to the coast
Lunch at Bar Europa where the owner Ana remembered us. We swam for several hours at the public beach and walked around town reminiscing. An assortment of pastries at Sal De Riso for afternoon snack (Ricotta e pere, Delizia Al limone amalfitana, Azteca, Freschezza ai Lamponi, Sentimento di Sal, Babamisu)
Sal de Riso pastry case
At 6:30p Paul drove us up to Ravello so I could buy another plate from Pascal at http://ceramichedarte.com. Pascal and his wife are so sweet. Happy for them that after the pandemic their business has boomed and he’s backordered on many pieces/patterns until 2024. Some day, maybe when I retire, I’ll buy a whole set from him and use it daily, like fine china.
After popping into a few stores, grabbing a pizza to go from Mimi and some gelato from Baffone (both which we had remembered from four years ago), we began our return trip to Sperlonga.
RavelloVesuvius
Paul did a great job again navigating the amalfi coast drive at night getting us back onto the autostrada by 9:15 and to Sperlonga by 11:30.
Today was the first day D didn’t wake up and work out. We all slept in, D and I still aren’t feeling great, but Paul knows how to put a smile on our faces with Nutella-filled bombetti and croissants.
We made it to the beach by 1pm and it was considerably more crowded today. Fried calamari, pizzette, pasta with red sauce, and calamari and shrimp for lunch. Hand shaved granita (amarena and lemon flavors) from one of the beach vendors as an afternoon snack.
For dinner, Miss M made herself penne with jarred sauce for dinner. Yup, you read that right. She was happy and we had a great meal despite her not joining us.
Paul, D and I went back to Cucino Io with its gorgeous views of the water, the borgo and beach. We had burrata with anchovies and polpo e patate (octopus and potato salad). Damian tried an anchovy for the first time and was shocked as to the saltiness. For dinner I had pasta with tuna, and Paul and D had tonno scotatto (lightly grilled tuna with pickled onions on the side.) I’m going to say the tuna was lightly grilled because the texture was very different than a grilled swordfish or salmon. D was a bit surprised at its “mushiness” but ate is anyway.
Capped the night off with gelato and Marianna joined us for a passagiatta (nightly stroll.)
Reading today’s post makes it sound like all we’re doing is eating, which I guess is true! But what it really means is we’re relaxing and not doing much or anything or going really anywhere. Just living la dolce vita. But that will change on Monday.
On Friday night the basketball court was used for a martial arts demonstration. On Saturday night Pinocchio came to town. The entertainers arrive, set up, and leave in a matter of hours. On Saturday there was also a magician in the piazza and a live band playing at the stairs up into the borgo. Lots of energy and free entertainment with people milling about everywhere.
Saturday morning there was also an outdoor market selling everything from underwear to bath mats to clothes, shoes and jewelry. Paul’s favorite vendor was Il Gigante Della Carne, which translates to “The Meat Giant” and essentially was a rolling butcher shop. There wasalso a vendor selling fruits and vegetables that was extremely popular with the locals. Are the alimentari and fruit stands on every corner not enough? Apparently not.
We spent Saturday afternoon at the beach again. We’ve seen the same people each day at their assigned umbrella. Each umbrella has a small table and built in ashtray, but there less people smoking on this trip compared to prior visits to Italy. A lot of vape pens, though.
Dinner tonight was in the borgo at Bar La Piazzetta. The waiter brought us Tiello (or Tielli, plural) to start. They are unique to Gaeta and the this area we are in. One was filled with octopus and olives and a red sauce while the other was all greens inside and tasted like the spinach pies Grandma Mary Ann brings from RI. Miss M had gnocchi sorrentina, D had a platter of prosciutto, melon and mozzeeella, Paul had a platter with various cured meats and cheeses, and I had Frisella which is basically a round toasty bread like a crouton consistency with tomatoes, mozzarella, olives and tuna all dressed in olive oil.
The waiter also brought over two baskets of bread. None of us have enjoyed the bread on this trip as it’s very dry and flavorless. One thing we noticed on this trip was some restaurants offering little packets of olive oil at the table (like a ketchup packet), along with the salt and pepper. We don’t recall ever seeing these before and wondering if it’s a new thing due to COVID.
We’re two thirds of the way through our trip at this point. Munich feels like it was a month ago. We’ve met many people, but one thing has stuck out to us: the people in this region don’t smile as much. From what we can recall, everywhere else we’ve been in this country, we’d be greeted with a “buon giorno” or “ciao” or a smile, but when crossing paths on the way to the beach, or taking part in the passagiatta, there’s been very little of that.
Paul recalls being with some folks in Pico on his last trip where there was a similar conversation over dinner about the people from Lazio, this region. I guess it’s just their way.
I woke up under the weather to a semi empty apartment. Paul went for a run, D worked out and played basketball with Francesco from Parma (age 13), and Miss M is a night owl and doesn’t wake til late morning regardless of time zone.
On the way to the beach at 11:30, we stopped at the alimentari for Paul and D to get sandwiches. They are closed from 1-4pm each day. The alimentari has a sanitizer dispenser outside and a handwritten sign asking to limit the number of people who go in. We’ve seen a lot more people in southern Italy wearing masks compared to Rome. Entering stores, at restaurants, even occasionally on the beach.
This morning I waited outside the alimentari in a small sliver of shade while Paul and D got their sandwiches. The fruit stand man outside the alimentari noticed I wasn’t completely in the shade, came over to me, moved my water bottles and bag three inches more into the shade so I could be completely covered. So sweet.
The men and women coming in and out of the market all spent time conversing with him about his fruit. He noticed one peach with bruises and quickly called over to a little boy he called Julia to run the peach inside.
The Italian people love Paul. People have asked Paul for directions, guidance on parking, guidance on tourist attractions, and for cigarettes. He belongs here. Upon arriving at the beach, D went to find Francesco and Ricardo the life guard came over to chat with Paul. They talked about the “Dream Team,” he plays water polo, and is studying to become a physical therapist.
The other day walking the beach, D bopped Paul in the head with the beach ball, and an old woman stopped us. In her broken English she chuckled and said Paul was a “darling man.” I think she was trying to convey that any other Italian parent would have turned around and yelled at his kid, hand gestures, swears and all.
At the beach, there’s very cold fresh water from the mountains dumping into the ocean. Mini water falls and pools form at the base of the rocks which the borgo is built on top of. If you swim in that area, the water isn’t as salty and because of the fresh water combining there are pockets of cool water and warm water mixing together. There’s schools of large fish near where the cold water trickles into the sea, as they may enjoy the cooler temperature.
Around 2pm D went to the larger supermarket in town with the instructions of buying me something for lunch. He came back with 14 Euro worth of gelato and ice cream!
Miss M didn’t join us at the beach today. Elon announced dorm assignments today so she is excitedly watching videos, connecting with her suite mates, and planning what else we need to purchase before she departs in 30 days.
Around 4:30 or 5 the DJ arrived. Little kids and a handful of adult women danced on the beach following the DJs instructions.
I haven’t felt well all day and napped the rest of the afternoon/evening. Paul, D and Miss M enjoyed dinner at Al Vignale where they had frutti misto (Paul,) a plate for buffalo mozzetalla and prosciutto (D), and spaghetti with red sauce (Miss M.)
Our relaxing Wednesday began with D playing basketball with Francesco again. He wakes up before everyone else to get a workout in. Then, more time for all us at the beach.
For lunch, D and I went to a different alimentari and salumeria to have sandwiches made: prosciutto for Paul, mortadella and galbanone cheese for D and I, pizza for Miss M, a Gatorade, and a four hoodsie-style cups of amarena ice cream. All for 12 euro.
At 1:30 I returned to the AirBnB for my final remote work day before vacation while the kids and Paul spent more time at the beach.
Late afternoon, Paul went to the grotto and summer home of Roman Emperor Tiberius. There’s an archeological site and small museum which houses the sculptures found in the cave which looks out over the city. It’s believed that Tiberius entertained here and then moved to Capri in AD 26, binding Sperlonga and Capri together both by sea and history.
For dinner around 9pm, Paul brought us pizza from Aqua & Farina, which translates to Water & Flour. Pictured is Paul’s pizza with buffalo mozzarella, lardo, tomato and provolone. My pizza had San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte (cheese), and sausage from Cetara. No visits to Cetera planned for this trip, so Cetera sausage is as close as we’ll get!
I had to work until midnight, Damian is still feeling congested, and Miss M had college pre-work to be completed before arriving on campus in 28 days.
Walking from our door, down the stone pathway, to the main road/basketball court/beach is 300 paces. And along that pathway we pass olive, lemon and lime trees, a grape vine, a blackberry bush, and multiple flowering bushes and trees. There are also eleven grates (we suspect to collect rain water run off) that the kids jump over or walk around.
As we reach the end of the path, we come upon an alimentari (small market with the best peaches) and a store selling eyewear which seems to be open 24/7.
Today Paul, D and I arrived at the beach at 10am, and to our delight for the first time we could walk on the sand without burning our feet. It was only in the upper 80s.
In the water we’ve seen several types of fish, several about six inches long with brown stripes. We’ve seen little white crabs and the fish come right up to you if you stand still. No rocks, no shells, and the sand is so soft. The only thing I’ve seen floating in the water that doesn’t belong there is a tiny fig.
There are a few beach vendors but it doesn’t feel intrusive. Two guys wheeling huge carts up and down the beach selling floaties, but it’s not a hot commodity as the water is very salty (so salty that it stings the eyes) and there are no waves, so it’s easy to float.
A few times a day we see people wheeling huge carts selling dresses, cover ups, flip flops and crocs. Another guy selling coco fresco (cold coconut slices), one selling granita, and there’s another vendor that we’ve been unable to determine what he’s saying or selling
The beach club has three tiers of dining, from what we can tell: take away, sit down in the covered pavilion at beach level, and seated on the upper terrace. Each with different menus.
The beach level sells espresso and other drinks at the stand up bar, and they have a “crema cafe” machine which we remember from our last trip. It’s like slightly melted coffee ice cream which is cool and refreshing.
Each day we’ve seen the same two couples, probably in their late 70s, playing cards. They don’t recline on the standard loungers that come with the umbrellas. Instead the beach club provided them with upright chairs and they use the lounger as their card table.
For lunch, D and I went to the alimentari with the good peaches and had sandwiches made to order: mortadella without pistachios, a cheese we’d never heard of before but just pointed too, and I grabbed a tomato from their display. 5 euro for two fresh sandwiches – yum!
Miss M showed up at the beach at 1:30pm.
I went back to the AirBnB at 3pm to start my workday and D followed shortly thereafter since he’s not feeling great. He seems to have come down with the same head cold that Paul had earlier in the week.
In the late afternoon, Paul went on a walk while I worked, D slept, and Miss M did whatever she does.
For dinner, Paul and I went to Cucino Io (which translates to I Cook.) It’s right on the water with beautiful views facing south towards the island of Zannone and the town of Terracina in the distance. We started with polpetti di alici (anchovie meatballs in red sauce), and shared a mezzo pacchero con pesce spada (large tube shaped pasta with swordfish) and frittura di calamari (fried calamari that was very light and tender.)
Polpetti di aliciMezzo pacchero con pesce spadaFrittura di calamari
This restaurant was the first meal where we’ve seen people drink espresso after the meal. Throughout Italy we’ve seen meals end with a salad. Or a dessert. But no coffee until today.
Tonight’s meal was also a limited, seafood based menu via chalkboard at the entrance. The waitstaff could verbally recite the options when you order, but we opted to take a pic of the menu at the entrance to think through translations and how to order in Italian.
At 10:15, Paul picked up a margarita pizza for Miss M and D (in case he wakes up) and I sat on the stairs of the piazza to watch “Spectacolo Zeta Circus,” a pretty bad street performer. Don’t know where 100 people appeared from but all of the sudden there were easily 30 kids under the age of ten watching. We headed back to the AirBnB and likely called it a night before most of the preschoolers in town.
I love Italian supermarkets of all shapes and sizes. The “alimentari” on every other street corner sell delicious fruit, snacks, usually have a small dairy section and sometimes a deli counter. I would never buy from the small markets at home, or even CVS, what I buy here at the alimentari.
Conad, however, is the Italian supermarket chain. Some are the size of a CVS and others the size of a Super Stop n Shop. And the prices can’t be beat.
This morning, after Paul and D played basketball in the heat for 90 minutes, we enjoyed beachside cappuccinos and cornetti (plain croissants) for Paul and I, and a latte cocoa (warm milk with chocolate at the bottom of the glass for stirring) for D. Miss M slept in.
But then late morning, Miss M, Paul and I made a 15 minute drive to Conad: 12 huge bottles of water, 6 huge bottles of iced tea, butter, eggs, a box of cereal, ritz crackers, apricot cookies, a bag of hard candies, espresso pods, a container of nuts, shampoo, conditioner, bar soap, laundry detergent, mosquito repellant, 3 liters of milk, 16 yogurts and a bag of taralle …all for 67 euro.
We spent the afternoon at the beach, and the sun is hot. If we aren’t in the ocean, we’re in the shade under the umbrellas. Except for Miss M…she’s getting darker by the minute.
Late afternoon I worked from the Airbnb.
For dinner, Paul, D and I went back to Ristorante Mari for a delicious ball of burrata, swordfish carbonara for D and me, Paul had Filet of Orata (a white fish,) and we ended with tiramisu.
Ristorante Mari is on the main road, and the only thing separating the restaurant from the beach is the basketball court. In between courses D played with little kids, teaching them proper shooting form.
The main road…beach on the left, restaurants on the right
We found our beach club for the week: two umbrellas, four chairs at Blue Marine. Typically they rent by the day or by the month. We arrived late in the morning and were seated in the last row but were told we can move up tomorrow.
The water is clean and clear and super salty. There are beach clubs interspersed with public beach access. Restaurants on the beach, showers, etc.
At the public beach you can tell that some people leave their umbrellas over night. They are held in place by large rocks in case there’s a rare gust of wind.
The sand is scalding hot so you need to walk briskly to the water. There hasn’t been a cloud in the sky.
While we were all still sleeping, D started his day at the basketball court. A workout and then a father and son showed up, and another kid, so they were able to play two on two.
Breakfast were delicious peaches from the market we walk by on the way to the beach. Lunch was pizza margherita for Miss M and a calzone for Paul from the beach club. D and I grabbed sandwiches from the food truck next to the basketball court: hot sausage, broccoli rabe, and mozzarella in a thick bread pocket toasted for me, and a similar sandwich for D but with prosciutto and mozzarella.
Dinner at Ristorante Tirreno with a beautiful view of the water. Miss M had spaghetti with red sauce, D had bolognese, Paul had fried shrimp and calamari with a side salad, and I had calamari stuffed with baby calamari and cheese and breadcrumbs, also with a side salad.
Bolognese and fried fishStuffed calamari and spaghetti with red sauce Pineapple and watermelon for dessert
After dinner we got off the main drag and walked up, and up, and up, to the area 400 feet above the sea. Reminds me of Positano but without the crowds. White washed walls leading to alleys of bars and shops selling shoes, clothes and gelaterias.
At the highest point is opened up to a large square with hundreds of people milling about, views over the beach, bars and music playing, kids running around. There was a very modern looking church – Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo — with a basket of food at the chancel available to those who are hungry.
We stopped at a bar in the main square for some aperol spritzes, D had a coke, and later Miss M had a stratchietella gelato on a cone.
As we walked back down the stairs to sea level, people are still eating their dinner (at 11pm) and tons of kids are running around. But it’s the end of a full day one in Sperlonga for us.
When Paul told the Roman taxi driver that we were heading to Sperlonga for two weeks, he exclaimed “una perla!” which translates to “a pearl.”
We arrived in Sperlonga around 6pm and by 9pm we were beachside enjoying dinner at Pizzeria Mari. The kids have been waiting for this leg of the trip since we first conceived of this vacation. Prosciutto with melon to start, Sperlongan mussels for me, pizza margarita for Miss M, swordfish for Big D, and spaghetti with clams and mussels for Paul. M was supposed to split the pizza and mussels with me but the pizza was so good she ate the whole thing.
CozzePizza margheritaSwordfishRistorante Mari
We walked up and down the main street at night passing by shops, gelaterias, and more restaurants. There’s also a set of outdoor trampolines, a merry go round and another little kids ride on the small boardwalk. Last night there was a traveling kids show with a person dressed up like a cartoon character…not sure who it was but they were set up with a hundred kid sized chairs on half of the basketball court which made Big D very concerned that he’d only have access to one hoop with a bent rim the next day.
Yes, you read that right — basketball court. We knew there was a full sized court right on the boardwalk, and it’s the only hoop for miles and miles around.
Our AirBnB in Sperlonga has two bedrooms, three small balconies (one with a washing machine and drying rack), kitchen / living area, two bathrooms, and a HUGE roof deck. There’s a ping pong table and dining table for six with umbrella on the roof, outdoor shower, and tons of extra space too.
There’s more to see. I still haven’t been to the main basilica in Rome, haven’t driven a Vespa, and I was hoping to get back to Castel Sant’Angelo…next time.
Big D remarked, and I’m paraphrasing, how people look at the main tourist sites, but right next to the site is also something worth seeing. We climbed a certain set of stairs in the Campodiglio on this trip and ten years ago, and yet he pointed out that we never went up the stairs just slightly to the left which led to a church. He felt that way about the Sistene Chapel too; so much more to see beyond the ceiling.
We’ve relied heavily on Paul speaking Italian, and his sense of direction, to navigate Rome. Taxi drivers love him, give him tips, and it means I can just sit back and enjoy and not manage anything which is great!
That being said, I’ve been finding it easier to read Italian dinner menus versus the English translations. Pizza toppings and pasta dishes just don’t seem to translate accurately into English
Big D also has a great sense of direction. He’s gone out for runs in the mornings both in Munich and Rome, on his own. He’s been very conscious about overeating on the trip to ensure he stays in basketball shape.
Quite often when Italians find out we’re from Boston, they respond with “ah, Celtics” which makes us smile. Despite knowledge of the Celtics, we were unable to find an outdoor basketball hoop in Rome.
The moment Miss M got into the rental car she tuned the radio to 88.9 remembering the station had “fun music.” It’s funny the things they remember.
Lunch at the AutoGrill along the highway, which is a rest area shop and eating establishment on steroids. There’s always large candies and toys to buy overtired children on long car rides, but every trip to the AutoGrill has an amusing featured item on special at the entrance. Today it was a light up musical ice bucket. Lol
We had three salads (with anchovies, capers, tomatoes, olives, and a ball of mozzarella), cups of fruit and a small tiramisu. Miss M ordered from the pasta station. Each tray of food came with large hunk of bread with olives and a small dinner roll. And, espressos were included with lunch — note how the rest stop espresso is served in china with a real spoon!
Paul drove us to the La Reggio designer outlets where we picked up a few things, and then headed to Sperlonga, the next stop on our Italian adventure.
This morning we slept in, bought me a Mkhitartyan jersey at the AS Roma store (even though he signed with Inter Milan last week), and got Big Ds hair cut at http://www.kissmedarlin.it in the Trastevere neighborhood.
For lunch: four pizzas at Da Poeta: pesto mozzarella and tomato for D, spicy salame for me, margarita for Miss M, and buffalo mozzarella for Paul. So good!
The rest of the afternoon we played tourist walking slowly through the city center, visiting the Pantheon and Spanish Steps.
Next time we’ll schedule a Vespa and sidecar tour. Saw some zipping around town and the speed may help you stay cool. Easier on the feet as well; we’ve done a ton of walking.
On our last night we went to see the Sistene Chapel at the Vatican museum. I’ve already been twice, and Paul three times, but it doesn’t get old and the kids don’t remember much from their trip ten years ago. Over the years we’ve spent so much time staring at the chapel ceiling while working on the 1000 piece puzzle of Michaelangelos masterpiece that it was neat to see if in life size form. We spent a good 30 minutes in the chapel, maybe longer. Miss M really enjoyed it and remarked that it would be a good place to study if the Chapel had desks and it was just a little quieter.
We took a quick look at St Peters lit up at night and then headed back to the Campo Dei Fiori area for dinner at Emma, a restaurant the kids and Paul ate at on Wednesday. It was recommended to us by a friend and the food was very good. Thin crust pizzas, zucchini flowed stuffed with mozzarella and Damian’s fourth bowl of spaghetti carbonara so far on the trip.
On Thursday we played tourist: we walked to the Bocca Della Verita, Colosseum, Roman Forum, the church of Cosmo and Damian (which was closed when we were here ten years ago), the Trevi fountain, did some shopping and got me back to the Airbnb in time to start my workday.
Lunch near the Trevi fountain — pastas for everyone.
Dinner in the Jewish ghetto — an area I hasn’t been to previously and the restaurant was right next to the ruins. The area is known specifically for fried artichokes. Unfortunately dinner wasn’t as good as all of our other meals; D has been ranking his spaghetti carbonara dishes (he’s had three so far) and tonight’s was in third place. Miss M ranked her third red sauce dish tonight in third place as well. My mozzarella didn’t exude milk as it should, the fried zucchini flower was terrible and only Paul liked the fried artichoke. Oh well — at least two more weeks of meals to go!
Artichoke, zucchini flowers and arancini
Miss M wanted to see the Colosseum during sunset and the Trevi fountain at night, so after dinner we walked off the calories and made our way back to these monuments. The Trevi was so crowded and dirty, packed with tourists. Totally expected, but it had to be done. Checked it off the list and tomorrow is another day.
On Wednesday we flew from Munich to Rome. Pretty uneventful all things considered: a taxi strike in Italy led to an Uber ride from a very friendly Lazio soccer fan who was intrigued with our plans to visit Stadio Olimpico that afternoon. The home stadium for AS Roma is probably not in the top list of destinations tourists seek out upon arriving at Fumincino Airport!
He drove us into the city via the Roman forum, coliseum, bocca della verita (the mouth of truth) and more, which was fun.
We have an AirBnB for this leg of the trip just one block outside of Campo dei Fiori where we stayed ten years ago: two bedrooms with walk-in closets, two en suite bathrooms, kitchen and living space.
Quickly dropped our bags and headed to the square where we quickly ordered fried zucchini flowers and four plates of pasta. We were too hungry and longing for good pasta to pause for pictures.
That afternoon/evening I worked US business hours and Miss M had her assigned registration time to select her fall class at university. We took a brief break and walked to the nearby supermarket for groceries.
Due to the taxi strike and Paul and D not having cellular service on their phones to order an Uber, they walked an hour each way to and from Stadio Olimpico. As a Roma fan, Paul was super excited to see the old, outdated stadium, the trophy they recently won and the various locker rooms.
Athletic training room
Late night we walked to Piazza Navona for gelato, to gaze at the fountains and people watch. It’s good to be back here. It feels familiar, and like home, yet different since it’s been ten years since being in Rome.
We spent the late-afternoon relaxing, shopping, and Paul and D rented scooters to explore the city further.
After the kids and Paul had gelatos we went to the Ratskellar for cocktails. The Rat is located inside the new city hall (the building with the glockenspiel in the center of town.) We sat in the courtyard surrounded by gothic architecture giving off major Harry Potter vibes.
As we reflected on our time here, we discussed our highs and lows:
D remarked on the highs that were very high and the lows that were very low. He was a fan of meeting Dirk and Stephen and zipping around on the Voi scooter, and his low was the glockenspiel, watching the Armenian dancers and the rough transition due to jet lag.
Miss Ms favorite part was seeing the Armenian dancers since it was very unexpected (and the chicken wrap sandwich from Ali’s).
For Paul, he gives Munich two big thumbs up for its cool, laid back vibe. His highlight was meeting Stefan and Dirk, and I would agree. Connecting with strangers, bonding over beers, and engaging in conversation is what makes the travel experience so special.
Today we took a guided tour of Dachau, the first and longest running concentration camp. Initially built for political prisoners, it’s been recorded that there were 32,000 deaths at that site. The campus was massive, the size of 32 soccer fields.
Our guide was quite the storyteller and for several hours shared her knowledge in a factual and unemotional manner.
It’s been interesting to hear how locals speak of the atrocities of 80 years ago. We’ve learned that all school children aged 14-17 must visit a concentration camp as part of their curriculum. Education is a small but critical step towards ensuring history does not repeat itself. And people have been quick to share that Hitter was voted into power as Germany is a democracy, so it’s critically important to read carefully who is on the ballot when you vote.
The only photo I’ll share today is the entrance gate seen by every prisoner which read, when translated, Work Sets You Free.
Breakfast at the hotel of chocolate croissants, cheeses, meats, soft boiled eggs, an assortment of juices, and because we arrived to breakfast on the later side only two pretzels remained.
On Monday the Marienplatz in Munich city center was livelier than yesterday as many shops were closed on Sunday.
Late morning we walked to the English Garden, one of the largest public parks in the world and larger than Central Park. We enjoyed watching the surfers at the entrance to the garden at the made-made Eisbach River. I was tired from all the walking the day prior so we didn’t stay long at the park and headed instead to the nearby University of Munich campus.
After a quick snack we hopped on the very clean U-Bahn train to Allianz Arena, home of the FC Bayern soccer team. Seats 70,000 yet feels intimate. We visited the museum and had an informative tour of the facility (similar to what we experienced a few years ago at Camp Nou in Barcelona). The tour guy spent time in W. Roxbury and was a Patriots and Celtics fan who was awake at 4:30am watching the Celtics in the recent NBA finals. Now that’s dedication!
At night we went back to the Hofbrauhaus where Big D had apple strudel, Paul had schnitzel, Miss M had a pretzel, and of course more beer all around (except for Miss M.) While it’s full of tourists, it has a place in German history with Hitler and the National Socialists hosting their first meeting in the upstairs hall. Long shared tables that seat 10-12 so socializing with others at your table is expected. Last night we spent 4-5 hours with Stefan and Dirk who live outside of Frankfurt and were spending a few days away from their wives and kids. They had personalized beer counters to track their consumption and were full of stories and laughs. At the end of certain songs they had us standing up, singing and toasting.
I haven’t written much about the German breakfast experience. D looks forward to this meal each day. It’s what you’d expect: a ton of pastries, yogurts, cheeses, meats, small containers of pickled items, tomato/cucumber/mozzarella salad, two types of scrambled eggs and sausages with mustered, and soft boiled eggs. But what makes me laugh each morning is the decor in the room. Who decided that this would be an appetizing print to display in the breakfast room?
Every eating establishment in Munich offers pretzels on the menu. Breakfast at the hotel consisted of pastries, fruits, yogurt, meats and cheeses, eggs, and of course two types of sausage and a stand of pretzels. They are everywhere.
This morning we spent three hours on a Viator walking tour about Munich and the Third Reich. Josh, a terrific guide/storyteller showed us different historic sites in the Nazi movement and educated us on the Nazi propaganda machine. Berlin may be the capital of Germany, but Munich was the headquarters of the Nazi party and where the movement began.
Miss M and I grabbed lunch from an Armenian kebab place in the city center called Ali’s, where I had the best, piping hot, spicy lamejun.
We went back to the courts from yesterday for a family game of futsal at the roof top court and then shooting hoops at the ground level outdoor court. D was in his happy place.
Mari rested late afternoon while Paul, D and I climbed the 13 flights of stairs inside St Peters, the oldest church in Munich to see beautiful panoramic view over the entire city.
The kids briefly rested while Paul and I enjoyed a few half liters (and a pretzel) at a nearby bar. Then we went to Augustiner-Keller, an outdoor beer garden recommended to us by a former coworker. Cheese filled sausage with potato salad for me, schnitzel for Paul, some type of roast pork with gravy for Big D, fries for Miss M, and liters of beer of course. The place is huge and pics do not do it justice.
Our trip wouldn’t be complete without another visit to the rooftop courts, this time late at night. D was hoping they’d be lit up at or we’d be able to enjoy the view from seven stories up, but the cage was locked.
Nearly 22,000 steps today and we are done!
Scooter rentalsView from hotel barView from St Peter AltenView from St Peter AltenGround level hoopGround level hoopRoof top hoop from the streetHoop on the roofSchnitzelBraised porkCheese-stuffed sausage
Lilla Travels 