Lilla Travels

I woke up under the weather to a semi empty apartment. Paul went for a run, D worked out and played basketball with Francesco from Parma (age 13), and Miss M is a night owl and doesn’t wake til late morning regardless of time zone.

On the way to the beach at 11:30, we stopped at the alimentari for Paul and D to get sandwiches. They are closed from 1-4pm each day. The alimentari has a sanitizer dispenser outside and a handwritten sign asking to limit the number of people who go in. We’ve seen a lot more people in southern Italy wearing masks compared to Rome. Entering stores, at restaurants, even occasionally on the beach.

This morning I waited outside the alimentari in a small sliver of shade while Paul and D got their sandwiches. The fruit stand man outside the alimentari noticed I wasn’t completely in the shade, came over to me, moved my water bottles and bag three inches more into the shade so I could be completely covered. So sweet.

The men and women coming in and out of the market all spent time conversing with him about his fruit. He noticed one peach with bruises and quickly called over to a little boy he called Julia to run the peach inside.

The Italian people love Paul. People have asked Paul for directions, guidance on parking, guidance on tourist attractions, and for cigarettes. He belongs here. Upon arriving at the beach, D went to find Francesco and Ricardo the life guard came over to chat with Paul. They talked about the “Dream Team,” he plays water polo, and is studying to become a physical therapist.

The other day walking the beach, D bopped Paul in the head with the beach ball, and an old woman stopped us. In her broken English she chuckled and said Paul was a “darling man.” I think she was trying to convey that any other Italian parent would have turned around and yelled at his kid, hand gestures, swears and all.

At the beach, there’s very cold fresh water from the mountains dumping into the ocean. Mini water falls and pools form at the base of the rocks which the borgo is built on top of. If you swim in that area, the water isn’t as salty and because of the fresh water combining there are pockets of cool water and warm water mixing together. There’s schools of large fish near where the cold water trickles into the sea, as they may enjoy the cooler temperature.

Around 2pm D went to the larger supermarket in town with the instructions of buying me something for lunch. He came back with 14 Euro worth of gelato and ice cream!

Miss M didn’t join us at the beach today. Elon announced dorm assignments today so she is excitedly watching videos, connecting with her suite mates, and planning what else we need to purchase before she departs in 30 days.

Around 4:30 or 5 the DJ arrived. Little kids and a handful of adult women danced on the beach following the DJs instructions.

I haven’t felt well all day and napped the rest of the afternoon/evening. Paul, D and Miss M enjoyed dinner at Al Vignale where they had frutti misto (Paul,) a plate for buffalo mozzetalla and prosciutto (D), and spaghetti with red sauce (Miss M.)

Our relaxing Wednesday began with D playing basketball with Francesco again. He wakes up before everyone else to get a workout in. Then, more time for all us at the beach.

For lunch, D and I went to a different alimentari and salumeria to have sandwiches made: prosciutto for Paul, mortadella and galbanone cheese for D and I, pizza for Miss M, a Gatorade, and a four hoodsie-style cups of amarena ice cream. All for 12 euro.

At 1:30 I returned to the AirBnB for my final remote work day before vacation while the kids and Paul spent more time at the beach.

Late afternoon, Paul went to the grotto and summer home of Roman Emperor Tiberius. There’s an archeological site and small museum which houses the sculptures found in the cave which looks out over the city. It’s believed that Tiberius entertained here and then moved to Capri in AD 26, binding Sperlonga and Capri together both by sea and history.

For dinner around 9pm, Paul brought us pizza from Aqua & Farina, which translates to Water & Flour. Pictured is Paul’s pizza with buffalo mozzarella, lardo, tomato and provolone. My pizza had San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte (cheese), and sausage from Cetara. No visits to Cetera planned for this trip, so Cetera sausage is as close as we’ll get!

I had to work until midnight, Damian is still feeling congested, and Miss M had college pre-work to be completed before arriving on campus in 28 days.

Walking from our door, down the stone pathway, to the main road/basketball court/beach is 300 paces. And along that pathway we pass olive, lemon and lime trees, a grape vine, a blackberry bush, and multiple flowering bushes and trees. There are also eleven grates (we suspect to collect rain water run off) that the kids jump over or walk around.

As we reach the end of the path, we come upon an alimentari (small market with the best peaches) and a store selling eyewear which seems to be open 24/7.

Today Paul, D and I arrived at the beach at 10am, and to our delight for the first time we could walk on the sand without burning our feet. It was only in the upper 80s.

In the water we’ve seen several types of fish, several about six inches long with brown stripes. We’ve seen little white crabs and the fish come right up to you if you stand still. No rocks, no shells, and the sand is so soft. The only thing I’ve seen floating in the water that doesn’t belong there is a tiny fig.

There are a few beach vendors but it doesn’t feel intrusive. Two guys wheeling huge carts up and down the beach selling floaties, but it’s not a hot commodity as the water is very salty (so salty that it stings the eyes) and there are no waves, so it’s easy to float.

A few times a day we see people wheeling huge carts selling dresses, cover ups, flip flops and crocs. Another guy selling coco fresco (cold coconut slices), one selling granita, and there’s another vendor that we’ve been unable to determine what he’s saying or selling

The beach club has three tiers of dining, from what we can tell: take away, sit down in the covered pavilion at beach level, and seated on the upper terrace. Each with different menus.

The beach level sells espresso and other drinks at the stand up bar, and they have a “crema cafe” machine which we remember from our last trip. It’s like slightly melted coffee ice cream which is cool and refreshing.

Each day we’ve seen the same two couples, probably in their late 70s, playing cards. They don’t recline on the standard loungers that come with the umbrellas. Instead the beach club provided them with upright chairs and they use the lounger as their card table.

For lunch, D and I went to the alimentari with the good peaches and had sandwiches made to order: mortadella without pistachios, a cheese we’d never heard of before but just pointed too, and I grabbed a tomato from their display. 5 euro for two fresh sandwiches – yum!

Miss M showed up at the beach at 1:30pm.

I went back to the AirBnB at 3pm to start my workday and D followed shortly thereafter since he’s not feeling great. He seems to have come down with the same head cold that Paul had earlier in the week.

In the late afternoon, Paul went on a walk while I worked, D slept, and Miss M did whatever she does.

For dinner, Paul and I went to Cucino Io (which translates to I Cook.) It’s right on the water with beautiful views facing south towards the island of Zannone and the town of Terracina in the distance. We started with polpetti di alici (anchovie meatballs in red sauce), and shared a mezzo pacchero con pesce spada (large tube shaped pasta with swordfish) and frittura di calamari (fried calamari that was very light and tender.)

This restaurant was the first meal where we’ve seen people drink espresso after the meal. Throughout Italy we’ve seen meals end with a salad. Or a dessert. But no coffee until today.

Tonight’s meal was also a limited, seafood based menu via chalkboard at the entrance. The waitstaff could verbally recite the options when you order, but we opted to take a pic of the menu at the entrance to think through translations and how to order in Italian.

At 10:15, Paul picked up a margarita pizza for Miss M and D (in case he wakes up) and I sat on the stairs of the piazza to watch “Spectacolo Zeta Circus,” a pretty bad street performer. Don’t know where 100 people appeared from but all of the sudden there were easily 30 kids under the age of ten watching. We headed back to the AirBnB and likely called it a night before most of the preschoolers in town.

I love Italian supermarkets of all shapes and sizes. The “alimentari” on every other street corner sell delicious fruit, snacks, usually have a small dairy section and sometimes a deli counter. I would never buy from the small markets at home, or even CVS, what I buy here at the alimentari.

Conad, however, is the Italian supermarket chain. Some are the size of a CVS and others the size of a Super Stop n Shop. And the prices can’t be beat.

This morning, after Paul and D played basketball in the heat for 90 minutes, we enjoyed beachside cappuccinos and cornetti (plain croissants) for Paul and I, and a latte cocoa (warm milk with chocolate at the bottom of the glass for stirring) for D. Miss M slept in.

But then late morning, Miss M, Paul and I made a 15 minute drive to Conad: 12 huge bottles of water, 6 huge bottles of iced tea, butter, eggs, a box of cereal, ritz crackers, apricot cookies, a bag of hard candies, espresso pods, a container of nuts, shampoo, conditioner, bar soap, laundry detergent, mosquito repellant, 3 liters of milk, 16 yogurts and a bag of taralle …all for 67 euro.

We spent the afternoon at the beach, and the sun is hot. If we aren’t in the ocean, we’re in the shade under the umbrellas. Except for Miss M…she’s getting darker by the minute.

Late afternoon I worked from the Airbnb.

For dinner, Paul, D and I went back to Ristorante Mari for a delicious ball of burrata, swordfish carbonara for D and me, Paul had Filet of Orata (a white fish,) and we ended with tiramisu.

Ristorante Mari is on the main road, and the only thing separating the restaurant from the beach is the basketball court. In between courses D played with little kids, teaching them proper shooting form.

We found our beach club for the week: two umbrellas, four chairs at Blue Marine. Typically they rent by the day or by the month. We arrived late in the morning and were seated in the last row but were told we can move up tomorrow.

The water is clean and clear and super salty. There are beach clubs interspersed with public beach access. Restaurants on the beach, showers, etc.

At the public beach you can tell that some people leave their umbrellas over night. They are held in place by large rocks in case there’s a rare gust of wind.

The sand is scalding hot so you need to walk briskly to the water. There hasn’t been a cloud in the sky.

While we were all still sleeping, D started his day at the basketball court. A workout and then a father and son showed up, and another kid, so they were able to play two on two.

Breakfast were delicious peaches from the market we walk by on the way to the beach. Lunch was pizza margherita for Miss M and a calzone for Paul from the beach club. D and I grabbed sandwiches from the food truck next to the basketball court: hot sausage, broccoli rabe, and mozzarella in a thick bread pocket toasted for me, and a similar sandwich for D but with prosciutto and mozzarella.

Dinner at Ristorante Tirreno with a beautiful view of the water. Miss M had spaghetti with red sauce, D had bolognese, Paul had fried shrimp and calamari with a side salad, and I had calamari stuffed with baby calamari and cheese and breadcrumbs, also with a side salad.

After dinner we got off the main drag and walked up, and up, and up, to the area 400 feet above the sea. Reminds me of Positano but without the crowds. White washed walls leading to alleys of bars and shops selling shoes, clothes and gelaterias.

At the highest point is opened up to a large square with hundreds of people milling about, views over the beach, bars and music playing, kids running around. There was a very modern looking church – Santa Maria Assunta in Cielo — with a basket of food at the chancel available to those who are hungry.

We stopped at a bar in the main square for some aperol spritzes, D had a coke, and later Miss M had a stratchietella gelato on a cone.

As we walked back down the stairs to sea level, people are still eating their dinner (at 11pm) and tons of kids are running around. But it’s the end of a full day one in Sperlonga for us.

Sperlonga

When Paul told the Roman taxi driver that we were heading to Sperlonga for two weeks, he exclaimed “una perla!” which translates to “a pearl.”

We arrived in Sperlonga around 6pm and by 9pm we were beachside enjoying dinner at Pizzeria Mari. The kids have been waiting for this leg of the trip since we first conceived of this vacation. Prosciutto with melon to start, Sperlongan mussels for me, pizza margarita for Miss M, swordfish for Big D, and spaghetti with clams and mussels for Paul. M was supposed to split the pizza and mussels with me but the pizza was so good she ate the whole thing.

We walked up and down the main street at night passing by shops, gelaterias, and more restaurants. There’s also a set of outdoor trampolines, a merry go round and another little kids ride on the small boardwalk. Last night there was a traveling kids show with a person dressed up like a cartoon character…not sure who it was but they were set up with a hundred kid sized chairs on half of the basketball court which made Big D very concerned that he’d only have access to one hoop with a bent rim the next day.

Yes, you read that right — basketball court. We knew there was a full sized court right on the boardwalk, and it’s the only hoop for miles and miles around.

Our AirBnB in Sperlonga has two bedrooms, three small balconies (one with a washing machine and drying rack), kitchen / living area, two bathrooms, and a HUGE roof deck. There’s a ping pong table and dining table for six with umbrella on the roof, outdoor shower, and tons of extra space too.

A few final thoughts on Rome:

There’s more to see. I still haven’t been to the main basilica in Rome, haven’t driven a Vespa, and I was hoping to get back to Castel Sant’Angelo…next time.

Big D remarked, and I’m paraphrasing, how people look at the main tourist sites, but right next to the site is also something worth seeing. We climbed a certain set of stairs in the Campodiglio on this trip and ten years ago, and yet he pointed out that we never went up the stairs just slightly to the left which led to a church. He felt that way about the Sistene Chapel too; so much more to see beyond the ceiling.

We’ve relied heavily on Paul speaking Italian, and his sense of direction, to navigate Rome. Taxi drivers love him, give him tips, and it means I can just sit back and enjoy and not manage anything which is great!

That being said, I’ve been finding it easier to read Italian dinner menus versus the English translations. Pizza toppings and pasta dishes just don’t seem to translate accurately into English

Big D also has a great sense of direction. He’s gone out for runs in the mornings both in Munich and Rome, on his own. He’s been very conscious about overeating on the trip to ensure he stays in basketball shape.

Quite often when Italians find out we’re from Boston, they respond with “ah, Celtics” which makes us smile. Despite knowledge of the Celtics, we were unable to find an outdoor basketball hoop in Rome.

The moment Miss M got into the rental car she tuned the radio to 88.9 remembering the station had “fun music.” It’s funny the things they remember.

Lunch at the AutoGrill along the highway, which is a rest area shop and eating establishment on steroids. There’s always large candies and toys to buy overtired children on long car rides, but every trip to the AutoGrill has an amusing featured item on special at the entrance. Today it was a light up musical ice bucket. Lol

We had three salads (with anchovies, capers, tomatoes, olives, and a ball of mozzarella), cups of fruit and a small tiramisu. Miss M ordered from the pasta station. Each tray of food came with large hunk of bread with olives and a small dinner roll. And, espressos were included with lunch — note how the rest stop espresso is served in china with a real spoon!

Paul drove us to the La Reggio designer outlets where we picked up a few things, and then headed to Sperlonga, the next stop on our Italian adventure.

This morning we slept in, bought me a Mkhitartyan jersey at the AS Roma store (even though he signed with Inter Milan last week), and got Big Ds hair cut at http://www.kissmedarlin.it in the Trastevere neighborhood.

For lunch: four pizzas at Da Poeta: pesto mozzarella and tomato for D, spicy salame for me, margarita for Miss M, and buffalo mozzarella for Paul. So good!

The rest of the afternoon we played tourist walking slowly through the city center, visiting the Pantheon and Spanish Steps.

Next time we’ll schedule a Vespa and sidecar tour. Saw some zipping around town and the speed may help you stay cool. Easier on the feet as well; we’ve done a ton of walking.

On our last night we went to see the Sistene Chapel at the Vatican museum. I’ve already been twice, and Paul three times, but it doesn’t get old and the kids don’t remember much from their trip ten years ago. Over the years we’ve spent so much time staring at the chapel ceiling while working on the 1000 piece puzzle of Michaelangelos masterpiece that it was neat to see if in life size form. We spent a good 30 minutes in the chapel, maybe longer. Miss M really enjoyed it and remarked that it would be a good place to study if the Chapel had desks and it was just a little quieter.

We took a quick look at St Peters lit up at night and then headed back to the Campo Dei Fiori area for dinner at Emma, a restaurant the kids and Paul ate at on Wednesday. It was recommended to us by a friend and the food was very good. Thin crust pizzas, zucchini flowed stuffed with mozzarella and Damian’s fourth bowl of spaghetti carbonara so far on the trip.

A relaxing final day of our time in Rome!

On Thursday we played tourist: we walked to the Bocca Della Verita, Colosseum, Roman Forum, the church of Cosmo and Damian (which was closed when we were here ten years ago), the Trevi fountain, did some shopping and got me back to the Airbnb in time to start my workday.

Lunch near the Trevi fountain — pastas for everyone.

Dinner in the Jewish ghetto — an area I hasn’t been to previously and the restaurant was right next to the ruins. The area is known specifically for fried artichokes. Unfortunately dinner wasn’t as good as all of our other meals; D has been ranking his spaghetti carbonara dishes (he’s had three so far) and tonight’s was in third place. Miss M ranked her third red sauce dish tonight in third place as well. My mozzarella didn’t exude milk as it should, the fried zucchini flower was terrible and only Paul liked the fried artichoke. Oh well — at least two more weeks of meals to go!

Miss M wanted to see the Colosseum during sunset and the Trevi fountain at night, so after dinner we walked off the calories and made our way back to these monuments. The Trevi was so crowded and dirty, packed with tourists. Totally expected, but it had to be done. Checked it off the list and tomorrow is another day.