Today is our last full day in Armenia and we packed a lot in. But first, today’s breakfast selections included eggplant lasagna, potatoes with mushrooms, and mini sausages. They haven’t had marmalade since last week and today two out of the three automatic coffee dispensers were broken. 

Now onto more interesting topics:

Gor, our driver from earlier in the trip, wasn’t available to drive us today so he sent his brother who we had met at Khor Virap earlier in the trip. Taron drove us first to Noravank to see the two story 13th century church called S. Astvatsatsin. The church is unique since it has shallow exterior stairs that lead to a second floor entrance. However it’s not the oldest church at the site. St Karapet church directly next to it was built in the 11th C. There are many khatchkars and small chapels at the site, in addition to a pit that is smaller than St Gregory’s and not as deep. Of course Paul climbed down it. 

The next stop was through a lot of winding roads up into the hills to the town of Yeghenadzor. Paul said the drive reminded him of Zion National Park. Yeghenadzor is where Camp Siranoush is located. I spent a week or two (I don’t remember) at the camp with orphaned children 30 years ago. Currently unoccupied, it was most recently used to house refugees fleeing Artsakh. The layout of the camp is the same, but with new buildings. The only original buildings from when I was there were boarded up, but I was able to briefly look inside the dining hall and see/hear the roar of the river that flowed directly behind the camp. I was grateful to the security guard who let us in.

Next Taron took us to his childhood home, probably a mile down the road from the camp, where we met his mother Anahid, father Kevork, Aunt Sona, and Gor was there with his children Kevork and Emilie. While Anahid prepared a feast for us, I played Taron in backgammon and beat him 2-1. He then wanted to play Paul in chess and they finished in a draw. 

For lunch our first course was Armenian coffee, cucumbers from their garden, and sliced peaches. Second course was dolma both wrapped in grape leaves and there was a separate pot of dolma stuffed in vegetables, plain yogurt, tomato and cucumber salad, grilled peppers, lavash bread and a thicker/denser Armenian bread that we’ve seen a few times. There was also a bowl of homemade honey, but I didn’t know what to do with it. They poured a juice that had large chunks of fresh peaches in it, and also several shots of homemade raki / ouzo / oghi.

They were keen for each person to make a toast with a new shot of alcohol, but I abstained from drinking a full glass each time. Taron abstained since he was driving us, but Aunt Sona and Anahid partook. Taron and Gor translated their toasts into English and our toasts into Armenian. Aunt Sona sang something to us, but I’m not sure what.

Third course was watermelon. Then we moved into their living room and had more coffee, candies, popcorn and sliced peaches again. 

Over lunch they asked questions about our life, our hobbies and our kids. Paul showed them pictures of his garden and the wisteria vine. When Taron and Gor’s mother saw a photo of Miss M, she turned to Taron and said in Armenian “here’s a girl for you to marry!” We explained that Miss M had traveled to Armenia two years ago, and he said sadly he is two years too late.

It was very relaxing being in Yeghenadzor and it was a brief moment on this trip where I felt comfortable. I also knew we had a two hour drive ahead of us to return to Yerevan. We spent so much time at their home that it also meant we missed seeing the Areni-1 cave which was part of our plan for the day. Oh well. Next trip!

By 4pm we were back in Yerevan.

On our last evening, we went to the Adana Complex, a 30-minute drive outside of Yerevan, to attend the gala to conclude the Homenetmen pan-Armenian games. Not far from the Turkish border, we could see Mt. Ararat in the distance, but the hazy summer weather prevented any clear views.

The Adana Complex hall was massive, had two stages, and there were thirty people per table. One stage had gigantic LED screens behind it, while the stage at the other end of the hall was smaller. 

The closing party was over the top, as I had expected when I first googled the venue. First, there were traditional Armenian dancers, then a fifteen-piece band performed, then a solo artist did a few songs, then the fifteen-piece band came back out to perform. We left at midnight to catch our flight, and the event was still going on. 

During the evening, they raffled off a bottle of Ararat brandy and a Megerian rug, of course. And I’m not quite sure, but I think each chapter was donating money, and as the tallies were announced, Megerian Carpets doubled everything raised. 

The food was plentiful but not good: three mystery salads, a Caesar salad, a platter of a variety of cheeses, a second smaller platter of soft cheese balls that tasted really lemony, a ton of bread, pickled vegetables, fresh greens, a huge platter of fruits, and a cured meat platter. And then the hot food came out: a platter of grilled pork, chicken, and vegetables. And then a fish course came out that no one at our table touched. Every table had multiple bottles of vodka on it, and it kept being poured by the waitstaff and replenished. For dessert, trays of very dry cake with some type of creamy filling. It was inedible. 

95% of people in the room were up dancing and singing along to the songs, and I only knew one song the whole night. Attending these types of events and not knowing the language is hard, and it made it even harder being one of only a few people in the room who didn’t know the music. Paul doesn’t know any of it, which is to be expected. He is happy to drink the vodka and clap along. For me, watching my childhood friends sing along while I know nothing, well, it makes me feel un-Armenian. It was a very strong contrast to earlier in the day, where I finally felt reconnected to this place. Both different and strong emotions on our final day in Armenia.

For me, there have been many high points of this leg of the summer travels. But there were low points as well. Overall, the good outweighed the bad, and if there was the opportunity to return to Armenia, I would do so. It’s been a unique experience and one that I was grateful to share with Paul and D, and all of you!