We’ve been to Italy ten (i think) times and our only experience with Naples has been arriving at the train station and departing from the port to catch a ferry. Our perception was dirty, crime ridden, not worth the time when there is so much else in Italy to see. However on Friday, for seven hours we walked all over the port area, barely scratching the surface of this amazing city. 

We were collectively in shock at how large the city is, the sheer volume of people, and the variety of beautiful structures, statues and churches. Everywhere we turned there was something to look at. Narrow streets were lined with vendors and five stories of apartment window balconies, displaying laundry, people gazing at the crowds and the most proud display of the Napoli soccer support that I have ever witnessed. Napoli flags and art work and shirts and statues dedicated to Maradonna (their favorite player) and banners and signs and stores. It was visually overwhelming. 

And did I mention the street food?

• D has a whole Neapolitan pizza (hand held, folded into fourths, scalding hot), he had a kinder bueno cheesecake, a mortadella sandwich and an espresso
• Paul enjoyed a mixture of fried fish in a cone,
• I had a mini rum baba,
• At the historic Gambrinus Hotel we had deliciously thick espresso
• At Taralleria Napoletana, we enjoyed a savory taralle and Aperol Spritz for only 3.50 Euro! Taralle in Naples are larger than ones we’ve had throughout the rest of Italy and Neopolitans put almonds in them. 

We breezed through a lot of major sites in seven hours:

• We parked near Castel Nuovo, a medieval fortress from the 11th century
• Piazza del Plebiscito, which is an enormous town square built out of rock from Mount Vesuvius. It has several major buildings in it, including the Royal Palace and San Francesco di Paola Basilica, the exterior of which is lit up in Neapolitan blue at night
• Galleria Umberto I, a shopping plaza similarly designed to Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan. At night the only people inside were a dozen kids using the Galleria as an indoor soccer pitch
• Naples’ cathedral, which was visually stunning
• Via Toledo, one of the main pedestrian streets dating back to the 1500s
• San Lorenzo Maggiore Basilica, one of the oldest churches in Naples and located in the exact centre of the historic city, 
• Walking back to the car we saw the exterior of Castel dell’Ovo, the oldest standing fortification in the city. Supposedly the Roman poet Virgil hid a magical egg in the foundations of the fortress, promising that if the egg were broken, the city would suffer great catastrophes. Hence the name “Egg Castle”.

We didn’t spend much time in any spot, trying to fit in as much as possible in one day.

The boys were also very patient as I dragged them to “Christmas Alley,” a narrow street selling nativity scenes. While it was not as pretty and extensive as I had hoped, we were surprised to learn that the official name of that street is “Via San Gregorio Armeno” or “Saint Gregory of Armenia Street.” St Gregory’s monastery, which was closed, is at the top of the street. For non-Armenian readers, Saint Gregory is the founder of the Armenian church, responsible for converting the country to Christianity, making Armenia the first Christian nation.

It took us over an hour to walk from Christmas Alley to the port which offered breathtaking views of Capri, Vesuvius, Sorrento and the peninsula. We had dinner at Pizzeria Errico Porzio, recommended to us by friends in Pico, and it didn’t disappoint. We didn’t have a wait, but by 9:15 there were 40+ people in line waiting to get in. I had a margarita pizza with San Marzano D.O.P. tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella, D had the Parthenope pizza with pureed yellow tomatoes, fior di latte cheese, basil flavored grano parano cheese, a red tomato cream, and Paul had a La Picante pizza which tomato sauce and fiore di latte cheese, topped with grated cacioricotta, spicy extra virgin olive oil, and basil.

By 10:30pm we were back in the car leaving Naples. Our feet and legs were tired and our bellies very full.

We all agreed that Naples is an under rated city. People were outside dining on every corner. People were dressed up heading out for the night. It was vibrant and fun with people of all ages about. We wouldn’t recommend someone tackle Naples on their first trip to Italy, but if you like cities, Naples is a must visit. We all agreed we want to go back – next time wearing sneakers, maybe with a tour guide, and definitely for more time in the vibrant city.