Yesterday BOTD was Egremni and similar to Milos yesterday, this beach is only accessible by foot or boat.

After driving 30 minutes from our hotel, we parked at the entrance gate and walked 1 km (0.6 miles) down a winding road and then descended 400 stairs to the beach.

The stairs were built two years ago and we could see the remnants of the original stone stairs which were destroyed by a rock slide and earthquake eight years ago.

Travel & Leisure named it one of the top places to view the clearest water in the world, and this beach is stunningly beautiful. No amenities, no food vendors nor men selling pastries here.

No fish swimming close to shore at this beach either. With all the beaches, the water gets deep very quickly, and the boys observed (with our goggles) how steeply the ocean floor sloped.

The beach is very long (2.5 km) and the stairs are pretty much in the middle. On one end, multiple boats deposited tourists to spend an hour or so on the beach, but they were barely a blip on our radar.

After five hours we began the ascent — up 400 stairs and walking 1 km in feels-like 106 degree heat. Thankful for Paul and D again who carried the two umbrellas and beach bag so all I had to do was use the base of the umbrella stand as a walking stick and get myself up the mountain.

We spent late afternoon at the pool drinking aperol spritzes.

Dinner at Rachi in Exanthia, a short 20 minute drive from our hotel, straight up to the top of the island. There are actually three operations on the premises: Rachi, the restaurant; Fly Me Sun & Stars Bar; and Paragliding, with the “take off pad” situated between the bar and restaurant. Rachi had an incredibly cool, laid-back vibe. We shared a greek salad and cheese croquettes. D had lemon oregano gnocchi, I had the Bianco (a tempura crusted cod in a garlicky cream), and Paul had pork belly over a chickpea purée and prune sauce.

The meal was great, but did I mention that the entire operation is orientated west towards the Ionian Sea and the setting sun? We sat down at 7:30 and finished our main courses just before 9, as the sun was saying it’s final good bye for the day. A fitting good bye to the beautiful island of Lefkada.