Staying in the town of Agrostoli has been great — tons of restaurants, a bustling community with a huge town square, lots of shops, fruit markets, groceries, etc. One of the Ionian University campuses is right down the road.

The only thing separating our AirBnB and the bay is a one way road. The bay is lined with fishing boats and multiple places to eat.

There’s a footbridge to cross the bay, and a steep mountain (with trotting goats) that we’ve crossed almost every day on the trip. That’s the only downside of Agrostoli, and we knew that going in to this trip. Everything outside of Agrostoli is a drive around the island.

At the base of the footbridge is a Greek church with a spiral staircase leading to the bell tower.

Last night we went into the St Nicholas Catholic Church on the main drag with all the people and shops. The doors to the churches are always open, so from the street Paul had noticed the distinctive cross on the altar: the cross of Saint Damian! I researched the church and can’t figure out why the church of St Nicolas would have Saint Damians cross on the altar.

While Sting dreamt of blue turtles, I’ve dreamt of Kefalonian turtles since learning Agrostoli is is known for them. They’re in the harbor overnight and follow the fishing boats into the bay in the morning, where they stay all day. They are 500 pound turtles, you can’t feed or touch them or they’ll bite your hand off, and we enjoyed looking for them. According to the wildlife protection people walking around, the best time to see the turtles is after 9am when the water is calm. When we’ve returned from the beach late afternoon, the bay is choppier so they are still visible but the water isn’t as clear. Fortunately, we all caught sights of them at different times.

All week D has been wanting to have breakfast at one of the restaurants on the bay, so our last stop on this island was for waffles and sweet and savory crepes.

After winding around multiple mountains again and spotting goats trotting around the side of the road, we made our way to the northernmost part of Kefalonia and the town of Fiskardo. An adorable port lined with 40+ sailboats, yachts and places to grab a Greek coffee.

Four men guided Paul’s car onto the small ferry which departed an hour after it was scheduled for. The car is currently wedged next to a van carrying braids of garlic. The fog has rolled in as the ferry passes Ithaca and we’re staying cool on the upper deck ready for our next stop of this journey.