It has been over three weeks since I touched down in Italy for the 6th(!) time. I arrived 4 days ahead of Karen and the kids and spent my time in Pico, the town that my great grandparents (my maternal grandmother’s parents) were born in.

I stayed at Nenà al Borgo Castello, a bed and breakfast owned and run by Carlo Spada. I met Carlo by chance when my family and I stopped by Pico six years ago, just to see it. What we discovered that day, and what prompted me to return, was that Pico has a gorgeous medieval borgo, perched on a hill and nestled among the Monti Aurunci, a regional park area. It is beautiful.

In theory, part of the motivation to go to Pico was anchored in looking at the past…..to see if I could uncover any more information about my great grandparents and if we had any remaining relatives. In reality, this visit became a testament of enjoying the moment, the here and now, and (maybe) the future. Through Carlo I met many people and made friends. I also enjoyed the company of friends who lived in Belmont (Big D and their son were soccer teammates. They have since returned to Rome, but vacation at Formia, about a 40 minute drive from Pico).

I spent my first night out with Carlo and my now friend Raffaella. I promised Carlo I’d keep it secret, but basically we went a few towns away and ate one of the best pizzas I’ve ever had, made by one of the best pizzaiolos in all of Italy, whom I also got to meet.

The next day I spent the morning in Pico, at the comune and at the cemetery. At the cemetery I was trying to find the graves of my great-great grandparents. I know only their names and surnames. The thing is, there are so many common surnames in Pico. My great grandmother’s surname “Carnevale” is as common in Pico as “Smith” is in the US. In fact I found as many as eight “Maria Domenica Carnevale’s” with different birth and death dates. Of course, my great grandmother is buried in Rhode Island, so that didn’t really help. I was, and continue to be, convinced that my great-great grandparents must be there, but alas I didn’t find them. There are a number of unmarked spots. However, it was a rewarding experience nonetheless. I then explored Sperlonga, a beautiful beach town north of Gaeta, im the afternoon. The drive there, through the Aurunci mountains, was spectacular. That night I went to dinner with my friends from Belmont and their children in Gaeta.

The next day, I had a choice: explore some more of the surrounding area or stay all day for the 40th annual “Rally di Pico”. I say “all or none” because the Rally is a timed car race and the streets would be closed all day and night. It was an easy choice, especially when Raffaella invited Carlo and I to her apartment which has two balconies overlooking the main road and a 150 degree corner that the cars would zip around. I met many of Raffaella’s relatives and friends and it was a lot of fun. After one of the best porchetta sandwiches for dinner, I watched more of the Rally and made even more friends.

On Sunday, I returned to Formia and spent the day with my Belmont friends and some of their friends and family. Formia is known for wind surfing and Luca taught me the basics. I was able to get on the board, steer a bit, and even make a turn!

After some pizza for dinner, i joined Carlo for a few drinks at the Castle Pub. The pub is owned by 2 sisters and only opens seasonally. It is a charming spot, at the very top of the borgo and adjacent, appropriately, to the Castello. It was a perfect spot to end my stay, in the company of my friend and the land of my ancestors.