The first half of today was spent in Vatican City, the smallest independent state in the world by both area and population. Paul, the kids, and I, had pre purchased 9am tickets for the Vatican Museum since Big D really wanted to see the Sistine Chapel (a lot of time was spent at preschool over the past two years studying artists, and last year the kids has replicated lying on their backs and painting a la Michelangelo in the Sistine Chapel.) The prepurchasing of tickets saved us hours as the line stretched around the block to enter. It took about 90 minutes to make our way through the museum to the chapel, and the kids were really into it once we were in there. A lot of questions about how long it took to paint it, we pointed out the “hand of God,” etc. We made our way out of the Museum and walked over to St. Peters. The kids were not interested in St. Peters, so we kept it brief.

A lot of discussion around how we speak English, Italian and Armenian, we have Italian and Armenian blood running through our bodies aka our heritage, but we live in America, we are armenian apostolic in terms of our religion but daddy is catholic. And to top it off, the people in the U.K. also speak English and you can understand them, but some words are different which is why on signs you see the word “english” next to the UK flag and not the U.S. flag but Americans should pay attention to those signs vs an Italian or spanish sign. The kids don’t know which end is up!

After viewing St. Peters we waited in a small line to climb the steps to the dome. While waiting in line and refilling waters in the nazzoni, we saw the statue of St. Gregory the Illuminator. During the ceremony where Pope Benedict re-dedicated the statue four years ago, he affirmed that St. Gregory the Illuminator “has made the Armenians, for more than seventeen centuries, a Christian people, and more, the first officially Christian people….St. Gregory was called the Illuminator precisely because in him the Lord’s face is reflected in an extraordinary way.”

The kids had fun climbing the stairs to the dome, especially when the stairs started to slant, taking pictures of the beautiful views.

After Vatican City we walked to Castel Sant’Angelo where we met up with Grandma Mary Ann who was sitting under a tree with a bunch of Spanish motorcyclists. Grandma had spent the morning taking taxis to various sites around Rome with Papa and was waiting for us at the Castello while Papa continued on his journey. We brought Grandma to Le Terrazza, a cafe inside Castel Sant’Angelo where Paul and I had enjoyed lunch with a scenic view 12 years prior. We sat under the pergola and enjoyed some panini (and spaghetti with meat sauce for Big D) and cold beverages while gazing at St. Peters in the distance. The cool breeze, friendly wait staff, and lack of tour buses made it a nice respite from the morning.

After lunch we walked along the moat of the castle and then along a shopping street so I could browse Coin, a department store akin to Macy’s but smaller.

The shop keepers and taxi drivers just love Paul. His Italian has really come a long way and they are so appreciative of his efforts. Today’s discussion with the taxi driver ranged from pro/anti Obama to the origins of our children’s names (and how it reflects on their personalities.) speaking of names, we found a street vendor selling bracelets tonight and one said “Marianna” so needless to say Miss M was quite pleased.

Food report:
Of course we made time for afternoon gelato…this time at Buoni Sapori Umbri, enjoying flavors including cafe, crema, limone, cacoa and fragola (strawberry.)
We also stopped by Castroni which is a store selling all types of pasta, beverages, groceries, etc. It’s a chain, but we could have spent hours in there pouring over the oils, honeys, grains, pates, and for me the range of amarena-themed products. But, we are heading to Parma in less than two weeks so refrained from buying a lot.
Back at the Campo dei Fiori, Paul found heaven -a store 100% dedicated to all things meat: Antica Norcineria Viola. Cured meat, deep fried fat, jerky style meats, lardo (salted fat), hundreds of types. The plate available for sampling was HUGE and there were lots of vacuum-sealed packages of meat that could go on the plane. Paul bought some selections for a pre-dinner salumi plate while I hit up another shop for some Moretti beer and sparkling water. Perfecto!
Dinner at Piccolo Arancio Ristorante was just ok. Chosen because it was kid friendly and written up in a few books. Nice to be able to walk to the Trevi Fountain, and the street was quiet, but the stuffed squash flowers we’re very greasy and obviously deep fried in the same oil that they use to fry the fish entrees. Paul and I enjoyed tonnarelli cacio e pepe (sheeps milk cheese and black pepper with square shaped spaghetti) and the kids and Papa had spaghetti carbonara.
Another round of gelato – this time from San Crispino – where we enjoyed lemon, straciatella, pistachio and honey flavors. (FYI Grandma Mary – pistachio was D’s choice and he did NOT like it. At least he tried and is thinking of you!)
Grandma Mary Ann got some chestnuts from the street vendor near Fontana di Trevi…they looked good, but Mary Ann felt the were undercook ed and there’s something just not right about hot chestnuts on a hot July night.

Some pictures from the day below, including a few photo references for fans of Angels and Demons. Most food shots are on my iPhone which will have to be uploaded separately. But in the meantime, thanks to all of you for reading along!

 Miss M in the Vatican Museum

 D in the stalla animale – hall of animals – which had a turtle, rabbit, dogs, cats and more.

 Angels and Demons fans, while it’s not the Vatican Archives, it is the library.

 Steps leaving leaving Vatican Museum

 Inside St. Peters

 Mosaic in rotunda of St. Peters

 Narrow steps climbing to dome

 St. Gregory

 View of St. Peters square from dome

 View of Castel Sant’Angelo from St. Peters dome

 Angels and Demons fans: the West marker pointing towards the Vatican

 Outside St. Peters

 View of Rome’s many domes

 Miss M drawing her sword like the angel on top they’re Castel

  Miss M listening to the musician on the bridge of angels leading to Castel Sant’Angelo

 Grandma and Mary at lunch in Castel Sant’Angelo

 Grandma and the chestnut man